This autumn we roamed Japan for nearly 4 weeks. We stayed in a variety of hotels from very new to the oldest western hotel in Japan, from brutalist Benesse House to luxurious Ryokan Kurashiki. But, especially since we had 4 friends with us all new to Japan, we wanted to include the experience of a small local ryokan. We could not have made a better choice than Ryokan Mugen. Located a bit north of Nijo Castle, Mugen is in a neighborhood close enough to reach any area quickly enough by taxi or bus but far enough from Gion to be quiet and authentic. There are only 4 or 5 rooms of which we had 3. Each is big enough for comfort and has an ensuite bathroom. In each the owner, Tome, rolled out very thick, comfortable futon each night. Each was quiet and enjoyed a view of the interior garden. Mugen does not serve dinner but does provide an extensive delicious Japanese breakfast each morning at a time of your choosing. So far this sounds like a very nice small ryokan. But it is better. For starters, Tome is the warmest, kindest most helpful human I have ever met. Whatever you need from outside dinner reservations, to advice on little visited Kyoto gems to a very early departure breakfast is yours with a free smile and laugh included. If you, too, are nice you may expect a treat in her comfortable, beautiful, well-stocked private hobby whiskey bar. So our advice: stay here…and be nice.
