If you want to experience the genuine hospitality of the Maldives, nothing beats spending time on one of the local islands. And boy, did we get a hearty dose of warmth, friendship and sheer authenticity in Ukulhas, specifically Ukulhas Sands. Even before we arrived, the proprietor, Saeed, had helped us make arrangements for our transport, given us tips and advice on how to make the most of our time here, and generally made getting to the island fuss-free. He personally greeted us at the pier, and took on a short but informative walk to his homely premises, which we found out later was built on his family land. So basically it was an extension of his family home, and we stayed right next to his extended family - and were pretty much treated the same. Our room was spacious and comfortable, and had all the amenities we needed including good wi-fi. It was on the ground floor so going in and out was easy, and the reception counter was just next door for convenient access if we needed anything. While staying at Ukulhas Sands, we also met Shau, Saeed's sister and an exceptional chef. The breakfast that's served at the hotel is cooked by her, and I recommend you choose a different set each day just to get a taste of her diverse culinary expertise. If you, like us, can't get enough of her cooking, you can walk down the street to her cafe, where she can cook up delicious local delights for dinner. You can also enjoy her home-made pastries and ice-cream as you wile away the afternoon. All of that is well and good, of course, but what about that most important feature - access to the beach? Well, no worries there - just a five minute walk in virtually any direction gets you to the sands - hence the name. We tried a different section of the island every day we were there. Our favourite spot was near a beach swing to the West of the island, which we accessed through an opening opposite a public running track/football pitch. The water is calmest there, and the sands aren't as filled with coral remnants as the other areas. Bring a beach towel, some snacks, your favourite book and you're all set for the day! All in all, Saeed and the Ukulhas Sands family made our first trip to the Maldives memorable, and we'll definitely stay here again if there's ever a second trip :P