Traveling through the Middle East: A Record of Observations in Baghdad's Old City

Returning to Baghdad is like plunging back into the noisy chaos. If I were to find a sister city for Baghdad, I think Cairo in Egypt would be the most similar: 1. Similar social customs (hookah, black tea, football); 2. Similar congestion and disorder, with no concept of traffic lights, crossing the street is all about bold courage; 3. The old city areas have a similar colonial mix-style streetscape (both former British colonies); 4. Both have a world-famous river flowing through the city (Nile vs Tigris); 5. Both have a heritage area of old mosques (Cairo is better preserved, while many in Baghdad are in disrepair and in need of reconstruction); 6. Both have a heavily guarded area of old churches and cathedrals. Of course, there are differences too, Cairo has the world-class heritage of the pyramids and the Sphinx, prices in Cairo are cheaper, but the people and officers in Baghdad are friendlier, with better security, and no one chases you for money. In all of Iraq, healthcare is free, education is free, utilities are almost costless, and impoverished families receive a monthly subsidy of about 300 US dollars, something Egypt cannot match. As the saying goes, 'When the granary is full, one knows what courtesy is.' So it is.