Deep within Yuanbao Street: The Former Residence of Hu Xueyan, a Half Chronicle of Late Qing History

Hu Xueyan Former Residence: A Mansion, a Half Chronicle of Late Qing Commercial Legends Deep in Yuanbao Street, Hangzhou, lies a Late Qing mansion steeped in time—the Former Residence of Hu Xueyan. Covering 10.8 acres, this architectural complex was the pinnacle creation of Hu Xueyan, the "Red-Topped Merchant," and stands as a commercial epic written in bricks, wood, carved beams, and courtyards. Every detail hides his legendary journey from poverty to immense wealth and reflects the turbulent changes in the business world of the Late Qing. Upon entering the residence, the first striking feature is its layout, described as “though made by man, it seems naturally formed.” The entire mansion centers around the "Zhi Garden," with the "Thirteen-Story Building" to the east and pavilions and waterside terraces to the west, blending the elegance of Jiangnan gardens with the grandeur of Huizhou architecture. Passing through the brick-carved gate inscribed with "There is a Way in Business," you face a sedan chair hall paved with bluestone slabs, where Hu Xueyan’s eight-pole sedan chairs once rested. On the pillars hang gilded couplets: "The way to pass down a family is to keep generosity; in dealing with the world, be sincere without tricks," expressing the business principles he once upheld. Further inside, the wood carvings of the Hundred Lions Tower are exceptional, with over a hundred lions in various poses hidden among beams and brackets—some adorable, some majestic. Each carving was crafted by master woodcarvers from Dongyang, taking three years to complete, and even today, the fierce spirit in the lions’ eyes remains vivid. Zhi Garden is the soul of the residence and a classic example of Jiangnan gardens. At its center lies a crescent-shaped pond, beside which are Taihu stones brought from Feilai Peak near Lingyin Temple, the tallest reaching 12 meters. The stones bear natural patterns called "wrinkles, thinness, leaks, and translucence." On rainy days, water drips through the stone crevices, sounding like a musical instrument. By the pond is the "Cold Fragrance Courtyard," where Hu Xueyan once collected books and appreciated paintings; winters fill the courtyard with the fragrance of wintersweet flowers planted by the window. The "Yufeng Tower," built by the water, offers a panoramic view of the entire garden. Hu Xueyan often played chess and discussed affairs here with political and business elites. The rosewood tables and chairs inside still bear century-old tea stains and ink marks in their wood grain. Every detail in the mansion exudes "luxury" and "exquisiteness." Beneath Zhi Garden lies a secret passage over 300 meters long, paved with bluestone slabs and about two meters high. It served as a refuge during wartime and was used for delivering letters and transporting goods in peacetime. The ventilation holes in the passage walls are cleverly designed and still maintain airflow today. The buildings inside are mostly made of ginkgo and nanmu wood. The beams and pillars of the Hundred Lions Tower are entire pieces of golden-thread nanmu wood, which has resisted decay for over a century. Sunlight filtering through the carved windows reveals a shimmering golden thread luster in the wood. Even the unassuming floor tiles were custom-made "gold bricks" from Suzhou, resonating when struck and smooth like jade. Each brick once cost as much as a common person’s monthly food supply. The fate of this mansion is closely tied to Hu Xueyan’s life. Construction began in 1872, costing 3 million taels of silver and taking three years to complete. At that time, Hu Xueyan had just risen to become the "richest man in the Late Qing" through his canal transport and banking businesses and was awarded the rank of "Provincial Governor," becoming a rare "Red-Topped Merchant." Every carving and piece of wood in the mansion reflected his power and wealth then. However, just ten years later, Hu Xueyan went bankrupt due to business failures and a broken capital chain, and the mansion changed hands. After enduring a century of storms, it was restored and reopened to the public in 2001. Today, strolling through the garden, admiring the well-preserved wood and brick carvings, and listening to guides recount stories from the past, one can almost see Hu Xueyan hosting guests and discussing affairs here, and feel the poignancy of his fall from the peak. The Former Residence of Hu Xueyan is more than just a building; it is a mirror reflecting the prosperity and harshness of the Late Qing business world and embodies the complex emotions Chinese people hold toward "home" and "enterprise." Whether you want to learn about Hu Xueyan’s legendary life or appreciate the architectural beauty of a Jiangnan mansion, this place is worth savoring—after all, no matter how splendid the carvings fade or how legendary a life ends, the stories hidden in this mansion will forever flow through time.