芙蓉镇白河客栈(溪谷花谷店)·云享私房菜

After about a half-hour drive from Yongshun County in the Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, you'll find an ancient town perched above a waterfall. This is Furong Town, known as the "Millennium Town Hanging on a Waterfall." Upon entering the town, you'll be greeted by winding bluestone paths lined with rows of stilt houses. These structures, many of which are built into the hillside, feature wooden pillars, plank walls, and black tiled roofs, forming a staggered, orderly arrangement. Tujia dwellings have always been in harmony with nature, not disrupting the mountain's contours or forcibly modifying the topography. Instead, they are cleverly laid out in accordance with the mountain's shape and the flow of water. As we reach the center of the town, the rumbling sound of water grows louder. Turning a corner, a waterfall, approximately 40 meters wide and 60 meters high, suddenly appears before our eyes. The water cascades down the cliff, crashing onto the rocks at the base, splashing a myriad of droplets. In the sunlight, rainbows often appear across the falls, a truly spectacular sight. This waterfall is unlike any other. Visitors can walk behind it, enjoying the view from behind the curtain of water – a truly fascinating experience. It's said to be the largest and most spectacular waterfall in western Hunan, and the reason Furong Town is nicknamed "the ancient town hanging on the waterfall." Furong Town, formerly known as Wangcun, boasts a history spanning over 2,000 years. It served as the seat of Youyang County during the Western Han Dynasty and the administrative center of the Tusi kings during the Tang and Song dynasties. Relics from the Tusi Dynasty still remain in the town, including the Tusi Palace and Tusi Ancestral Hall. Walking along the stone pavement, one can almost hear the echoing ringing of horse caravan bells, a testament to its former prosperity as a vital commercial port at the junction of Sichuan, Hunan, and Guizhou. When it comes to food, Furong Town is undoubtedly famous for its "rice tofu." Following the aroma, I found a time-honored shop. The owner poured rice slurry into a pot, gently stirring it until it solidified, then cut it into small pieces and served it with chili oil, crushed peanuts, chopped green onions, and other condiments. I took a bite and it was tender, smooth, and refreshing, with a hint of spicy flavor. It truly lived up to its reputation. The owner proudly told me that the movie "Furong Town" was filmed here, and that Liu Xiaoqing's character, Hu Yuyin, sold rice tofu. Traditional Tujia delicacies like bacon, sour fish, and glutinous rice cakes are also not to be missed. I ordered a few local dishes at a restaurant near the waterfall. The bacon and bracken stir-fried with ferns were fragrant, and the sour fish was appetizing and went well with the rice. Paired with the soft and glutinous rice cakes, and a glass of Tujia-brewed rice wine, it was truly relaxing to enjoy the stunning view of the waterfall. In the evening, the town lights gradually brightened, illuminating the waterfall with a vibrant array of colors. Elderly Tujia people gathered in the square, singing ancient Tujia folk songs and performing the waving hand dance. I stopped to watch, captivated by this primitive yet passionate ethnic culture. As night fell, I checked into an inn converted from a stilt house and fell asleep to the sound of the waterfall. In a trance, I felt as if I had traveled back a thousand years to the Tusi Dynasty, witnessing the vicissitudes of this ancient town. The beauty of Furong Town lies not only in its unique natural landscapes, but also in its rich history and ethnic culture. It's a place where nature and humanity blend seamlessly, a place worth every traveler's pause to savor.