In a Republican-era house on Nantang Old Street, I savored a table of warm, "Time-Flavored" dishes.
It was my first time in Wenzhou, and having heard that "Wei Rong Hu Family Banquet" was a top-tier Wenzhou culinary destination, I made a special trip to experience it.
Through the wooden lattice windows, the lights of the Nantang River flickered slowly on the water. If I hadn't made this special trip, I probably would have missed this restaurant hidden in the old house—there's no eye-catching sign, but opening the door feels like stepping into a Republican-era dream.
From the first bite, it was truly professional. 🍲 Here are a few details that made me stop eating:
· Crispy Fried Fish Skin with Scallop Sauce—the culinary highlight of the night. The chef said this is the "4.0" iteration of Shanghai-style and Zhangqiu-style scallion-style dishes. The fish skin is braised first, then deep-fried. You can hear a soft "crunch" when you bite into it, but the interior remains chewy and glutinous. The moment the scallop sauce is poured over it, the salty, fresh aroma rushes into my nose, like a sea breeze on my cheeks. It's a truly unforgettable memory.
· Steamed East China Sea wild sea bass with tangerine peel and black olives features a combination of Xinhui tangerine peel and Chaozhou black olives. Picking up a piece of the tender white fish belly with chopsticks, the delicate fragrance of the tangerine peel first touches your tongue, followed by the richness of the black olives. The best part is the secret sauce, which imbues the homely steamed dish with a layered narrative.
· The traditional smoked goose, fused with flavor, arrives with a subtle hint of sugar smoke. The Yongjia goose, marinated in a secret white brine, is so smooth it requires no effort to chew, leaving a gentle aroma lingering in your throat after swallowing.
· Even the simplest scallion oil noodles hold hidden secrets—the Japanese Inaniwa noodles are smooth and chewy, and the scallion oil, simmered with scallions at the perfect temperature, gives each noodle a shimmering amber hue.
🌿 The sincerity of private dishes is hidden in these corners
· The fish cakes are hand-pounded for a springy, boneless texture; the fish ball soup's firmness belies its genuine "beating"; even the stir-fried yellow leaf vegetables are specifically labeled as originating from the Yongjia core production area, their leaves crisp and sweet, as if freshly picked.
The dessert, featuring homemade double-skin yogurt with tangerine peel and red bean paste, is a true testament to its thoughtfulness. The yogurt, fermented with three strains of bacteria, is as thick as satin, while a spoonful of the red bean paste, laced with the aroma of tangerine peel, offers a restrained sweetness yet a lingering aftertaste.
As I left the restaurant, glancing back at the warm yellow lanterns, I suddenly felt that this meal epitomized Wenzhou: unassuming yet meticulously crafted. The price of 368 yuan per person might not be cheap, but when the fish skin crumbles between your teeth and the aroma of scallion oil permeates your tongue, you'll understand the true meaning of "slow work, fine craftsmanship."
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