Our local friend took us to the top of Kahlenberg - where an observation point offers a stunning panoramic view of the city and surrounding area. After watching tour groups hurry in, hear a 2 minute geographic orientation to the place, snap pictures, and be ushered off like cattle, we shook our heads with pity and headed toward the hiking trail. Instead of a quick bus ride down the hill, we walked charming dirt paths through lush green forest, past Sound of Music-esque meadows, and along stretching vineyards, toward tantalizing views of valleys, the city, and the river. It was the most enjoyable two hours of my entire trip - being lost in a quiet wonderland of nature. We had the sprawling urban city in the background, yet none of the noise or hurry; it was incredible.