Not Xi'an, not Kaifeng! This seriously underrated "Beijing" in Hebei hides the world's number one
📍First of all,
It's not Xi'an, not Kaifeng.
In Handan, Hebei, there is a small town called Daming — the Daming of "Beijing Daming Prefecture," the hometown of Lu Junyi from Water Margin.
The town hides a Stone Carving Museum, with Song Dynasty-style gardens, the world's number one ancient stele, night tours with lights, and it's all free.
The moment you step inside, it feels like traveling back to the Great Song Dynasty.
🗿 The Five Rites Stele, the 12-meter-tall "World's Number One Ancient Stele"
The centerpiece of the museum is the Five Rites Stele, standing 12.34 meters tall, the largest ancient stele in China. The inscription was personally written by Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty, detailing the ritual system of the Northern Song. Standing beneath it and looking up, the millennia of weathering carved into the stone create a sense of awe a hundred times more powerful than photos.
Inside the Hongjing Pavilion is the "World's Number One Epitaph" — the Tang Dynasty epitaph of He Hongjing. Nearby is the Zhu Xi Sutra Inscription Stele, featuring the handwriting of the great Song Confucian scholar, with smooth and full brush strokes. Standing close, you can feel the calm energy in the brushwork.
🌙 Nighttime lighting makes Hongjing Pavilion a hit
Starting in 2024, the museum offers night sessions. When Hongjing Pavilion lights up, it instantly goes viral online. In spring and summer, lights come on at 7:30 PM; in autumn and winter, at 6:30 PM. Thousands of beams cascade from the pavilion's roof, casting a golden glow over the entire Song-style architectural complex. Locals say this is "Daming's Chang'an Twelve Hours."
It's best to arrive 20 minutes early to the square to secure a spot and turn on your phone's night mode. Afterward, head to the North City Gate for the digital light show, where an entire city wall becomes a giant screen, offering a visual feast lasting over ten minutes.
🏛️ Song-style gardens, exquisite even in the north
The museum is meticulously built, with Song-style architecture that was once selected as one of the "Most Beautiful Rural Public Cultural Spaces." The layout follows a central axis, with flying eaves and dougong brackets, and the garden is dotted with ancient pines and cypresses. The Five Rites Stele Pavilion is simple and elegant, Hongjing Pavilion is grand, and in the east area, there is the Tuo Pu Academy where you can try making rubbings and experience intangible cultural heritage firsthand.
🗺️ Half-day highlight itinerary
Afternoon (arrive before 3:00 PM): Five Rites Stele Pavilion → Hongjing Pavilion (see He Hongjing's epitaph) → Zhu Xi Sutra Inscription Stele → Rubbing experience (2 hours)
Evening: Wait for sunset in the garden, find a good spot before the lights come on
Night: Hongjing Pavilion lighting → North City Gate light show → Daming Jihui Night Market
The whole trip takes 4-5 hours, tickets are free, and parking is free.
⚠️ A few honest tips
· Free! Free! Free! No reservation needed, just walk in
· Open 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, closed Mondays (except holidays)
· Be sure to stay until nightfall; the lighting is the highlight, don’t leave after just seeing the daytime
· Wear comfortable shoes; the garden is quite large
· The Stone Carving Museum is 6 kilometers from the ancient city, with free shuttle service
· If you want to explore the ancient city, plan a full day: visit the ancient city walls and Catholic Church during the day, go to the Stone Carving Museum in the afternoon, and watch the lights at night
🍜 What to eat in Daming
Daming has three local treasures called "258," loved by locals since childhood:
· Ermao Roast Chicken: Created in 1809, tender and falling off the bone, even Premier Zhou praised it highly. A pot of roast chicken fills the city with aroma, especially delicious with fire-baked bread.
· Wubai Ju Sausages: A century-old flavor, salty and rich
· Guo Ba Fire-Baked Bread: 25-30 layers of crispy crust, Premier Zhou Enlai ate one and a half and said "really good." Freshly baked is the best, golden and crispy
· Sesame Crisp Pancakes: A breakfast staple in Daming, best with a bowl of bean paste, very fragrant
· Halal Snacks: Lamb stew bread, shumai, beef pancakes, all found on the ancient street
· Food spots: Ming and Qing dynasty ancient street old shops, Daming Jihui Night Market (330 meters long, a trendy national style night market)
🚗 How to get there
· By car: Navigate to "Daming Stone Carving Museum," about 1 hour from Handan city center, free parking
· High-speed rail: Arrive at Handan East Station, taxi about 1 hour, direct shuttle bus available
· Bus: Take a bus from Handan Bus Station to Daming, then taxi
🏛️ Final words
It's not that you can't afford Xi'an, Daming just offers better value.
The 12-meter world's number one ancient stele, the glowing Hongjing Pavilion, the century-old flavor of Ermao Roast Chicken—
This forgotten "Beijing" is truly worth a special trip.