Nagoya's Afternoon Journey: From a Cup of Tea to Osu Kannon Temple
Nagoya's afternoon was just right that day. The city wasn't noisy but was filled with the sounds of life.
Relaxing with an Afternoon Tea
After exiting the subway station, I didn't rush to Osu Kannon Temple. Instead, I wandered into the alleys of the Osu area to find a café where I could pause and unwind.
The Osu area is home to many unique coffee shops and tea houses, ranging from retro kissaten to modern cafés and dessert shops. For instance, the famous "Komparu Osu Main Store" is known for its shrimp sandwiches and iced coffee, which are so enticing that just looking at the photos can make you hungry. Other options include the pancake specialty store Gram and small hand-drip coffee shops, all of which have branches in the Osu area.
I chose a small café with window seats, ordered a hot coffee and a dessert. The thin cup walls allowed me to feel the warmth with my palm. Outside the window, pedestrians, bicycles, and travelers with suitcases passed by. The city was in motion, but at that moment, I felt like I was momentarily removed from the flow of time.
Travel doesn't always require grand plans. A cup of tea, a piece of dessert, and a window view to daydream are enough to calm the mind. By the time I finished my coffee, my heart had transitioned from the daily grind to "traveler mode."
From the Shopping Street to the Red Main Hall of Osu Kannon Temple
Leaving the café, I followed the road and soon felt the unique atmosphere of the Osu area: long arcade shopping streets, sky-high signs, vintage stores, electronics shops, cosplay costume stores, second-hand CDs, models, and anime merchandise. It's like Akihabara, Harajuku, and a flea market all rolled into one street. This area boasts over 1,200 shops and is one of the stages for the World Cosplay Summit, making it a representative hub of Nagoya's "subculture."
At one end of the shopping street lies today's destination—Osu Kannon Temple.
Looking up, the bright red main hall stands against the sky, with stairs extending upward and white flags fluttering on both sides. In the front plaza, pigeons occasionally gather to forage. This temple, officially named "Kitanozan Shinpukuji Hōshōin," belongs to the Shingon sect Chizan school. Originally located in Gifu Prefecture, it was relocated to its current site during the early Edo period by order of Tokugawa Ieyasu due to frequent flooding. It is considered one of Japan's three great Kannon temples, alongside Asakusa Kannon and Tsu Kannon.
Finding Peace Amid Incense and Red Pillars
Before climbing the stairs, I paused at the plaza to take in the atmosphere—a mix of incense, wood, pigeons flapping their wings, and distant street music.
The stairs aren't very high, but each step upward felt different from the leisurely vibe of the café earlier. In front of the main hall, many people queued to toss coins into the offering box, clasp their hands in prayer, or light incense, letting the smoke waft over their hands and foreheads to leave behind bad luck and bring back good fortune.
Here, no one rushes you to take photos or move on to the next spot. You can simply stand still, watching sunlight filter through the eaves, casting light on the red pillars and the shoulders of the crowd.
If you have time, you can also draw an omikuji (fortune slip) or buy a small omamori (charm) to hang on your bag. Even if you can't read Japanese, folding the fortune slip and tucking it into your wallet or tying it at the designated spot in the temple adds a ritualistic touch to your journey.
Just Beyond the Temple: The Bustling Osu Shopping Street
Descending the stairs and looking back at the expanse of red buildings, you'll find that just a few steps forward, the scene shifts from "solemn" to "lively."
The Osu Shopping Street is right next to the temple, with a long arcade filled with various small shops:
- Stalls selling fried chicken, takoyaki, crepes, and dango, perfect for eating while walking.
- Second-hand clothing stores, kimono shops, and vintage stores, ideal for treasure hunting.
- Game, model, and card shops, as well as anime merchandise stores, where ACG fans might lose track of time.
- Small cafés, dessert shops, and kissaten for another round of drinks.
This area is both a local shopping district and a stage for youth subculture, making it a great place to "wander aimlessly." As a traveler, one of the happiest things is having no specific destination and letting the streets guide you.
How to Get There?
If you're coming from Nagoya Station or Sakae Station, here are some simple ways to reach the Osu Kannon Temple/Osu Shopping Street area:
- Subway Tsurumai Line "Osu Kannon" Station (T08): Exit from Exit 2, and you'll see Osu Kannon Temple after about a 3-minute walk.
- Subway Tsurumai Line/Meijo Line "Kamimaezu" Station (T09/M03): From here, you can quickly enter the Osu Shopping Street, making it suitable for those who want to shop first and then visit the temple or vice versa.
The Osu Kannon Temple grounds are open for free year-round, essentially all day (though facilities like the library have different opening hours, so check official information if you plan to visit them).
Travel Tips and Practical Advice
1. Suggested Itinerary (Half-Day to Full-Day Leisurely Walk)
Recommended Order: Café → Osu Kannon Temple → Osu Shopping Street
- Arrive in the Osu area around 1 PM.
- Find a café or kissaten that catches your eye for a light meal, dessert, or afternoon tea.
- Around 2-3 PM, head to Osu Kannon Temple, taking your time to explore the plaza, stairs, and main hall.
- After visiting, walk around the temple, draw a fortune slip, or buy a charm.
- Then dive into the Osu Shopping Street, eating, shopping, and taking photos along the way.
- By early evening, depending on your energy and mood, choose to:
- Stay in Osu for dinner.
- Return to the subway station and head to Sakae or Nagoya Station for nightlife.
2. How to Choose an Afternoon Tea Spot?
- For a "classic Nagoya taste": Try old-school kissaten like "Komparu Osu Main Store," where shrimp sandwiches and coffee are highly recommended by locals.
- For a "sweet and Instagrammable" vibe: Consider pancake, soufflé, or cake cafés like Gram, which serve photogenic dishes.
- For a "quiet retreat": The alleys of Osu have many small, quiet cafés. Search "カフェ 大須" on maps and pick the one whose photos appeal to you.
3. Best Time to Visit?
- Afternoon to early evening is ideal:
- The temple has good lighting for photos during the day.
- Most shops in the shopping street are open, offering plenty of food and drink options.
- In autumn and winter, evenings can be chilly, but the streetlights create a charming atmosphere.
- On the 18th and 28th of each month, the temple hosts antique markets and stalls, perfect for treasure hunting or enjoying vintage items.
4. Small Reminders
- Osu Kannon Temple is a place of worship, so be mindful not to be too noisy when taking photos and avoid pointing your camera too close to people praying.
- While the shopping street offers many eat-on-the-go options, be considerate of others and avoid spilling food while walking.
- Winter temperatures can be low, especially if you stop to take photos on the stairs or plaza. Remember to bring gloves, a scarf, and hand warmers.