Self-Driving Tour Around Shanxi: Dinglin Temple, Lotus Caisson Ceiling, A Unique Masterpiece
Under the progressively layered five-tier eaves, the lotus colors of the Yuan Dynasty’s unique caisson ceiling remain vivid after seven hundred years, and looking up feels like seeing a frozen code of civilization.
Starting from Gaoping city center, drive about five kilometers southeast. Two kilometers from Tiebosi Temple, nestled among the verdant pines and cypresses deep in the folds of the Taihang Mountains, a thousand-year-old ancient temple quietly sits here. No admission fee, parking is available right at the temple entrance, but there are no car charging stations.
Dinglin Temple, the largest ancient architectural complex among the 22 nationally protected sites in Gaoping, was originally named "Yongde Temple" but was renamed after the "Dinglin Spring" beside it, which flows year-round.
“Ding” signifies a pure place for Zen meditation practice, while “Lin” subtly reflects the temple’s natural mountain setting. The temple faces south, with four courtyards aligned along the central axis: the Mountain Gate, Leiyin Hall, Three Buddhas Hall, and Seven Buddhas Hall, integrating architectural styles from the Jin, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties.
The Mountain Gate of Dinglin Temple is a pavilion-style building from the Ming Dynasty, featuring a double-layered high pavilion with nine ridges and multiple eaves. The ground floor serves as the temple’s main entrance, and the first floor houses statues of the Four Heavenly Kings, thus it is also called the "Heavenly Kings Hall."
This gate connects with the three-story bell and drum towers on the east and west sides, with five layers of eaves progressively stepping upward, forming a unique spatial structure of “three visible layers and two hidden layers” from the Ming era.
The eaves’ corners resemble a great roc bird about to take flight, visually creating a grand momentum. As a model of pavilion-style architecture in southeastern Shanxi, the Mountain Gate is the starting point and spiritual symbol of the entire temple.
Hidden on the second floor of the Mountain Gate is Dinglin Temple’s most stunning artistic treasure: the lotus-head hanging flower column caisson ceiling.
At the center of the caisson ceiling is a large lotus core inlaid with glazed tiles from the Jin Dynasty, resembling the heart of the sky. Surrounding it, eight fully three-dimensional wooden hanging flower columns hang in midair like silk ribbons, with their tops carved into blooming lotus flowers. These hanging columns are not wall reliefs but completely cantilevered in the air, interwoven with intricate dougong brackets, forming an extremely complex three-dimensional space radiating outward from the center. It looks like a giant upside-down golden lotus in full bloom, transforming the entire roof into a manifestation of the Pure Land.
The delicately carved lotus petals and cloud patterns shine brilliantly under the colorful painted decoration. The eight lotus flowers bloom in sequence, and the hanging flower columns hang like silk ribbons, each petal outlined in yellow, vermilion, and blue. After seven hundred years, the colors remain as bright as ever.
This is a unique surviving Yuan Dynasty caisson ceiling in Shanxi, designed to reflect the ancient cosmology of “round heaven and square earth.” The glazed lotus core represents the “One True Dharma Realm,” the eight hanging columns symbolize the “Eightfold Path” or the eight directions of the heavens, and the layered dougong brackets spread like ripples, signifying the boundlessness of Buddhist teachings. When sunlight filters through the window lattice, light and shadow flow between the hanging columns, and the lotus core’s glaze refracts a serene radiance. The entire space is filled with a dynamic sacredness that takes one’s breath away, as if hearing the echo of Buddhist chants.
Leiyin Hall is one of the most important buildings along Dinglin Temple’s central axis. Although the existing structure is a wooden frame from the Yuan Dynasty, its beam structure follows Song Dynasty style, perfectly matching the official Song architectural standards recorded in the "Yingzao Fashi."
The interior paintings of Leiyin Hall are especially precious, with Song Dynasty peony vine patterns on the beams preserved intact. The painted patterns closely match those in the official Song architectural manual "Yingzao Fashi."
In front of the hall on the moon platform stand two octagonal stone sutra pillars, each about 4 meters tall, carved with scriptures, lotus motifs, inverted bowls, and jewel tops. These two sutra pillars are “Maitreya Birth Pagodas,” one built in the second year of the Taiping Xingguo era of the Northern Song (977 AD), the other in the second year of the Yongxi era (985 AD). Together with the inscription on the door’s threshold stone at the back of the hall dated “April 20, 1311” (Yuan Dynasty), they testify to the building’s long historical span.
Inside the Dizang Hall on the east side of Dinglin Temple’s front courtyard are precious Ming Dynasty murals. The “Ten Kings of Hell” murals on the north and south walls were painted in the fourth year of the Jiajing reign (1525) using the technique of powdered gold on plaster.
The murals are symmetrically arranged and richly detailed, depicting the theme of the cycle of life and death. Each of the ten mural panels shows scenes from the Ten Kings’ Halls, with a similar layout: the upper section depicts the presiding judge king at the center, and the lower section shows scenes of judgment and punishment in front of the hall.
Upon close inspection, familiar figures appear in the fifth and ninth halls—the fifth hall’s King Yama is Bao Zheng, and the ninth hall’s King of Equality is Lu You. The mural figures are realistically portrayed with vivid colors, remaining bright to this day, making them important materials for studying Ming Dynasty painting and folk beliefs.
Dinglin Temple consists of four courtyards. Besides the main buildings along the central axis, there are bell and drum towers, corridors, side courtyards, and pavilions on the east and west sides. Along the central axis are the Mountain Gate, Leiyin Hall, Three Buddhas Hall, and Seven Buddhas Hall in sequence.
The temple’s spatial layout is exquisite. From the halls of Good Dharma and Arhats, climb steep stone steps to reach a quaint small courtyard, with a Buddha hall to the north and a pavilion to the west, flanked by two opposing pavilions in the courtyard.
From the height, the scenic beauty of mountains, water, and pavilions unfolds fully. The temple is rich in plants, including the famous Dinglin Spring (water flowing from a stone cave, gently murmuring, clear and sweet), as well as thousand-year-old ancient trees, including a millennium-old peony transplanted from the Jin Dynasty and the ancient pine called “Tenglong Golden Pine.”
🚉 Transportation Guide:
Location: Dinglin Temple is located in Mishan Town, Gaoping City, Shanxi Province, about 5 kilometers from Gaoping city center. It is recommended to drive or rent a car and navigate to “Gaoping Dinglin Temple.” The transportation is somewhat inconvenient, but this also preserves a rare tranquility within the temple.
💰 Average Cost:
Admission: The temple is free to visit, but registration at the Mountain Gate is required.
⏳ Best Visiting Time:
Best time: Autumn (late October to mid-November) when the ginkgo trees inside the temple turn golden, contrasting beautifully with the ancient temple’s red walls. Summer is cool inside the temple, making it a great place to escape the heat.
Standing at the highest point of Dinglin Temple, looking toward the towering Daliang Mountains, the wind chimes under the eaves gently ring. On the mottled beams, the Song Dynasty peony vine paintings faintly appear in the afternoon sunlight.
Outside the Mountain Gate, the thousand-year-old welcoming pine called “Tenglong Golden Pine” still stretches its branches like a silent gatekeeper, witnessing dynastic changes and guarding the most precious memories of this thousand-year-old ancient temple.