Rediscovering History: A Memorial to WWI Heroes in Moscow
During my trip to Kaliningrad last year, I was pleasantly surprised to find a monument by sculptor Salavat Shcherbakov dedicated to the heroes of World War I at the intersection of Guard Avenue and Gornaya Street. However, I was even more amazed when, in the Moscow district of Sokol, I stumbled upon not just a monument but an entire memorial park dedicated to the heroes of World War I. It struck me because, as someone from my generation, I remember how this war was portrayed in Soviet history—purely as a bourgeois-imperialist conflict, devoid of any recognition of Russian heroics. Back then, the battles supposedly didn’t concern us, and the soldiers, officers, and generals were seen as pillars of a regime despised by the Bolsheviks. As a result, no monuments or memorials from that era were erected during Soviet rule, and those constructed before the October Revolution of 1917 were swiftly destroyed by the new regime.
This stark contrast reminds me of the wise words of Maria Petrovna von Bock, the eldest daughter of Pyotr Stolypin: “History is but the resultant force of the actions of countless individuals…” It highlights how the 12 million conscripts of the Russian Empire and nearly 800,000 lost Russian soldiers went forgotten post-1917.
Military memorials after WWI have appeared worldwide, from France’s Douaumont Ossuary and Verdun Soldiers’ Cemetery to Belgium’s Menin Gate and Germany's Tannenberg Memorial. Remarkably, Russia had its own memorial by February 1915, initiated by Grand Duchess Elizaveta Fyodorovna. Land for the cemetery was secured at the village of All-Saints and meticulously planned. Specific sections were allocated for Orthodox, Catholic, Jewish, and Muslim soldiers, as well as female nurses, who tragically also fell victim to the war's horrors. The site even included sections for soldiers from Russia’s allied nations, like the Serbs, French, and British. By 1919, the All-Saints military cemetery had become the resting place for over 18,000 soldiers, officers, nurses, and doctors.
After the October Revolution, burials continued there for cadets, Red Army soldiers, and White Guard forces. This makes the lines of Alexander Vertinsky, a famed entertainer and Stalin Prize laureate, resonate deeply: “And no one thought to simply kneel and tell these boys that in a useless country, even noble deeds are just steps towards endless chasms.”
Tragically, the Brotherhood Cemetery was shut down in 1925, and in 1932, it was hastily dismantled, with most gravestones destroyed. Efforts to restore the All-Saints cemetery began in the mid-1990s, culminating in its reopening on November 8, 1998, just before the 80th anniversary of the end of WWI.
I stumbled upon this gem unintentionally while walking south from All Saints Church in All-Saints at Sokol. After passing an old cinema called "Leningrad," I entered what I thought was a park, only to find a sign marking it as the "Memorial Park of World War I Heroes." From there, I explored its fascinating landmarks, each more captivating than the last. Words won't do justice to the beauty of the place—check out the photos I’ve uploaded instead. What surprised me the most was that only around ten people have reviewed this remarkable spot on travel websites. This hidden Moscow treasure definitely deserves more recognition. Don’t miss out!