In God's sanctuary, rediscover what winter should truly be like
1. Hemu Village: Snow Mushrooms and the World in Morning Mist
At seven in the morning, I climbed up the Harden Viewing Platform in the dark.
Beneath my feet was a wooden boardwalk, the snow crunching underfoot. Behind me followed a group of photographers carrying tripods, panting heavily, no one speaking—they were all waiting for that moment.
The moment the sun peeked over the mountain, the entire Hemu Village came alive.
Morning mist rose between the wooden houses, mingling with the smoke from cooking fires, indistinguishable from one another. The sunlight slanted across the snow, turning the "snow mushrooms"—thick snow caps on the roofs—into a pinkish gold.
The man next to me was pressing the shutter so hard his hand trembled, muttering, "Third time here, finally waited for it."
I asked if it was worth it. Without turning around, he said two words: "Absolutely worth it."
2. Kanas Lake: Frozen Blue and the Legendary Water Monster
From Hemu, I took a car to Kanas Village, then switched to a horse-drawn sled to the lakeside.
In winter, Kanas Lake is covered with thick ice, blue like a giant gemstone. People walked cautiously on the ice, testing it carefully. A few girls from the south knelt on the ice, shouting at their phones, "Look! This is the lake with the water monster!"
I didn’t see the water monster, but I saw something even more magical—the frozen bubbles beneath the ice, strings rising from the lakebed, frozen in time halfway up.
The sled stopped in the middle of the lake. Surrounding us were snowy mountains, frost-covered trees, and a silence so deep you could hear your heartbeat.
The driver handed me a pot of hot milk tea. I took a sip; salty, fragrant, and piping hot, it warmed my fingertips instantly.
3. Sanwan Hike: Waiting for the Mist at Fairy Bay
On the third morning, I waited for two hours at Fairy Bay.
For that legendary morning mist.
At 7:30, the mist began rising from the river surface. At first, it was a thin layer, like gauze, then thickened, enveloping the entire bay. Sunlight pierced through the mist, scattering flecks of gold on the water.
I walked along the boardwalk to Moon Bay, where the river bends in an S-shape like a crescent moon resting in the valley. The water hadn’t fully frozen yet; the flowing emerald and the pure white banks formed a natural oil painting without any filter.
Further ahead was Wolong Bay. The small island in the river looked like a dragon. Locals say it’s a young dragon who didn’t listen to the elder dragon and sneaked away to play, leaving its soul here.
By the time I reached Wolong Bay, the mist had cleared, and the sunlight was just right.
4. Tuva Family Visit: Morin Khuur and "The Shepherd of Keketuohai"
In the evening, I visited a Tuva family.
The wooden house had a stove burning, warm enough to take off my coat. The host served milk tea, Boersak (fried dough), and a large plate of hand-pulled meat.
A Tuva man picked up the morin khuur, its deep and melodious sound like wind passing through pine forests. Then he stood up and performed a solo dance—arms spread wide, imitating a wild goose in flight. His movements carried the vastness of the grasslands and the desolation of winter.
When the music stopped, everyone sang "The Shepherd of Keketuohai" together. When the line "My beloved, I am waiting for you in Keketuohai" came, a girl quietly wiped away tears.
At that moment, I suddenly understood: some songs must be heard on this land to truly be understood.
5. Practical Tips (Real Experience Summary)
💰 Tickets: Kanas 195 RMB (including shuttle), Hemu 102 RMB, Fish Viewing Platform 20 RMB
❄️ Winter Transport: Only 4WD off-road vehicles (with snow tires) allowed; shuttle buses suspended
🛷 Horse-drawn sled: From Hemu Village to Harden Platform or Birch Forest, about 1.5-2.5 hours. Negotiate price before boarding
🏠 Accommodation: Recommended to stay in old Kanas Village or Hemu Village, with snowy views from the window, book 15 days in advance
🥘 Must-eats: Tuva milk tea, hand-pulled meat, local hot pot
🧥 Essential Gear: Down pants, long down coat, anti-slip snow boots, two pairs of gloves, heat packs all over the body. Also put heat packs on your phone; it will shut down in low temperatures otherwise