Leizhou, Zhanjiang | An ancient county with a thousand-year history, known as the "Important Land of the South," featuring ancient pagodas, stone dogs, and the aroma of roast pig
Hidden in the heart of the Leizhou Peninsula lies an underrated ancient city—Leizhou. It served as the seat of the Leizhou Prefecture for over two thousand years, acting as the political and cultural center of the Leizhou Peninsula and earning the title "Important Land of the South." The city is steeped in history: ten famous Song Dynasty officials (including Kou Zhun, Su Shi, Su Zhe, and Qin Guan) were exiled to or passed through here, sowing the seeds of Central Plains culture in this red soil. The Ten Sages Shrine by West Lake commemorates them. The Ming Dynasty Sanyuan Pagoda still stands in the ancient city, shaded by banyan trees that are two to three hundred years old. In the fields, you'll find primitive-looking Leizhou stone dogs, a unique local totem. With many cultural relics, few tourists, and affordable prices, you can explore it thoroughly in two days, or take a more relaxed three-day trip.
📅 Best time to visit
October–April: The most comfortable period. The weather is dry and the temperature is pleasant, perfect for walking around the ancient city, visiting shrines and pagodas, or heading to the fishing ports for seafood.
May–September: Humid and rainy, but the fruit is at its best (Qandou mangoes and pineapples are in season). July–September is typhoon season, so be sure to check weather alerts before you leave.
For festivities: The "Nianli" festival around the Lunar New Year is Leizhou's grandest folk event. Villages take turns hosting it, featuring deity processions, float parades, lion dances, and communal feasts—the most authentic way to experience Leizhou. Around the Dragon Boat Festival, you can taste freshly steamed zongzi.
🚄 How to get there
Self-driving (recommended): It takes about 1 hour from downtown Zhanjiang via the Shenhai Expressway, and the road conditions are excellent. Attractions within the ancient city are just a kilometer or two apart, but the Leizu Shrine, Yingli Town, and Wushi Town are outside the city, so having a car makes travel much more comfortable.
Train: Leizhou Station serves regular trains. Zhanjiang West Station is for high-speed trains; from there, you can transfer to a bus or carpool, which takes about 1 hour to reach Leizhou.
Flight: The nearest airport is Zhanjiang Wuchuan Airport. You can rent a car or take a bus upon arrival.
Local transportation: In the ancient city area (museum, Sanyuan Pagoda, West Lake Park, Maodegong Drum City), you can get around by walking and taking taxis. For trips to Leizu Shrine, Yingli, and Wushi, hiring a car is recommended (about CNY 250–350 per day), or you can carpool.
🗺️ 3-day, 2-night itinerary
Day 1 | Ancient city culture, a journey through two thousand years
Morning: Start at the Leizhou Museum (free). The Leizhou stone dogs, Han Dynasty bronze drums, and Maritime Silk Road artifacts are the best way to understand the city. Then, walk to Sanyuan Pagoda Park. The Ming Dynasty pagoda is surrounded by towering banyan trees that are two to three hundred years old. You can climb the pagoda for a bird's-eye view of the entire city.
Afternoon: Leizhou West Lake Park features a Jiangnan-style garden layout with ancient sites one after another along the lake—the Ten Sages Shrine commemorates the ten Song Dynasty officials exiled to Leizhou, Su Gong Pavilion preserves traces of Su Shi and his brother, and the stele of "Record of the Ten Sages Hall in Leizhou" written by Wen Tianxiang is in this area. A leisurely two-hour stroll is just right.
Evening: Explore Qujie Ancient Street, the most vibrant part of the old city, filled with arcades, old shops, and street food. For dinner, try white-cut chicken and mixed fish soup.
Night: Maodegong Drum City Resort (4A, free admission, 9:00 AM–10:00 PM). The replica ancient street is brightly lit and offers dining, shopping, and performances—it's the liveliest place at night. Stay in Leizhou City.
Day 2 | Leizu Shrine + Yingli roast pig + Wushi seafood
Morning: Leizu Shrine, located about 4 km from the city, is a major national historical and cultural site. It is one of the largest shrines in Lingnan, dedicated to Chen Wenyu, the "Leizu" (Ancestor of Thunder) revered by the local people. The architecture, wood carvings, and stone inscriptions are worth a close look. Opening hours are generally 8:00 AM–5:00 PM, and admission is free.
Noon: Drive to Yingli Town (about 40 minutes) for authentic Yingli roast pig—locally raised pigs are slow-roasted in earthen kilns using lychee wood for two hours. The skin is crispy and crackling; dip it in white sugar or local spicy bean paste. This is a Zhanjiang-level intangible cultural heritage and a staple at Leizhou banquets and Nianli festivals.
Afternoon: Continue west to Wushi Town (about 47 km from the city), one of Leizhou's most famous fishing ports. By the pier, you can watch fishing boats return and see the seafood trade.
Evening: Enjoy seafood in Wushi—flower crab, Spanish mackerel, grouper, squid, and scallops. Steaming or boiling is the best way to taste their freshness. Return to stay in Leizhou City, or spend the night by the sea.
Day 3 | Hot springs or relaxing by the sea
Option A (Relaxation): Zhangshuwan Hotel hot springs. You can soak in the hot springs right in Leizhou City. Adult tickets start at a few dozen yuan. It's a great way to relieve fatigue after two days of walking. If traveling with kids, you can add the water park. After soaking, have a bowl of sweet fermented rice, browse the market for souvenirs, and head home.
Option B (Seaside): Visit Beizai Beach in the Jiji Town area. With fine white sand and clear water, it's very uncrowded and perfect for a quiet half-day.
Option C (Add-on): Huguangyan Scenic Area (about 32 km from Leizhou, 4A, ticket approx. CNY 50). One of the three existing volcanic lakes in China, it's worth a visit if you have extra time.
💰 Budget (per person)
Budget-friendly: Approx. CNY 700–1,000. Stay in budget hotels or homestays in Leizhou City for CNY 120–200/night. Eat pork offal noodles, fried shrimp cakes, white-cut chicken, and seafood at food stalls. Use public transport and taxis. Most attractions are free.
Comfortable: Approx. CNY 1,400–1,900. Stay in hotels near Zhangshuwan or Drum City for CNY 300–500/night. Hire a car (approx. CNY 250–350/day). Include Yingli roast pig, seafood, and hot springs.
The best thing about Leizhou is that most historical sites are free; money is mainly spent on food and transportation. A decent seafood dinner costs about CNY 80–150 per person.
🏨 Where to stay
Leizhou Old Town: The museum, Sanyuan Pagoda, West Lake, Qujie, and Drum City are all within walking distance. It's the most convenient area for dining, with many hotel options. Suitable for Day 1 and Day 2.
Maodegong Drum City area: Newer facilities and lively at night. Suitable for those traveling with kids or who enjoy a bustling atmosphere.
Zhangshuwan Resort area: Features hot springs and a water park. Suitable for those looking to relax or traveling with family.
Wushi Town: Simple accommodation by the fishing port. Suitable for those who want to watch the sunrise over the fishing boats and eat freshly caught seafood.
⚠️ Travel tips
Attractions in the ancient city are close together, so don't waste money taking taxis in circles. The museum, Sanyuan Pagoda, West Lake, and Qujie are basically within walking distance; walking is actually faster.
Check on-site notices for Sanyuan Pagoda and Leizu Shrine. These protected cultural sites occasionally adjust opening hours for maintenance. It's best to call or ask your hotel before you leave.
When hiring a car to Yingli or Wushi, agree on the price beforehand. Clarify whether it's a daily rate or per trip, and whether the driver will wait for you. Sort this out before you leave to avoid disputes when paying.
Ask for the price before ordering seafood. "Market price" traps are common at fishing port food stalls. Confirm the unit price before weighing, and ask about processing fees.
Do not climb on the stone dogs. Leizhou stone dogs are cultural relics and local sacred objects scattered in fields. Just look at them; do not sit on or move them.
Be cautious during the typhoon season (July–September), as seaside activities and ferries may be temporarily suspended.
Don't skimp on sunscreen and mosquito repellent. Leizhou has strong UV rays, and there are many mosquitoes near the banyan trees and lakes. Both are essential.
Book accommodation early during the Nianli festival. During the first lunar month, villages take turns hosting Nianli, and city hotels can suddenly become fully booked.
Leizhou isn't the kind of place that stuns you at first glance; its charm unfolds slowly—a pagoda, a shrine, an old banyan tree, each holding a thousand years of stories, followed by a steaming bowl of pork offal noodles around the corner. Lower your expectations, slow your pace, and you'll find it gets more interesting the more you explore.