A Day in Longyearbyen: What to See in the Capital of Svalbard
In 2023, I worked in Svalbard and had the chance to visit Longyearbyen—the archipelago's largest settlement and capital—several times.
I arrived in Longyearbyen from Barentsburg on the Compass, a small motorboat.
Because of this, my route didn't kick off from the main street or the tourist center, but right from the port.
I stepped ashore—and just started walking.
Longyearbyen is small, but it packs in plenty of fascinating sights: colorful houses, old mining structures, a church, monuments to polar explorers, a university, a hospital, and even a quirky shop built around the concept of upcycling.
📍 From the Port—Walking into Town
Longyearbyen's port is located right next to the settlement, so you can easily start exploring the moment you arrive. Tour boats and cruise ships dock right here.
I love getting to know a town this way: instead of rushing straight to a specific landmark, I just walk around and slowly take in how life unfolds in such a unique place.
And the first impression is very Arctic: you are surrounded by mountains, water, brightly colored houses, and the lingering traces of the coal mining industry.
📍 The Main Street and Svalbardbutikken
Right in the center, you'll find Longyearbyen's main street, dotted with cafes, shops, and Svalbardbutikken—the town's main supermarket.
There's one detail here that I just had to catch on video.
At the entrance, there's a sign strictly prohibiting firearms.
For Longyearbyen, this makes perfect sense: step outside the settlement limits, and the reality shifts. Svalbard is polar bear territory, so any trip outside the town requires carrying polar bear protection.
Still, it's pretty hard to imagine a sign like that at the entrance of a regular supermarket somewhere in Europe.
📍 The Miner Monument
The history of Longyearbyen is inextricably linked to coal mining.
During my walk, I reached the Miner Monument—one of the symbols of old Longyearbyen.
Coal was mined here for decades, and even today, you can spot various mine-related structures scattered around the settlement. That makes the town fascinating to explore not just as a tourist destination, but as a former working-class mining village.
📍 Svalbard Kirke (Church)
Next up is Svalbard kirke (church), the northernmost active Lutheran church in the world.
It sits a bit higher up than the rest of the town, offering a beautiful view of Longyearbyen and the surrounding mountains.
I definitely recommend popping inside. While the exterior looks quite austere and modest, the inside is far cozier than you’d expect from a church in such a harsh environment.
I took photos both inside and out—I'll be sure to share them in the gallery.
📍 Monument to Polar Explorer Eivind Astrup
Another monument that caught my eye is dedicated to the Norwegian polar explorer Eivind Astrup.
Standing right next to the explorer's figure is his loyal companion—a husky sled dog.
Astrup lived to be only 24, but he managed to take part in two expeditions to Greenland alongside Robert Peary. During these expeditions, he explored and mapped the northern part of Greenland, focused heavily on the use of skis and dog sleds, and essentially became a prominent pioneer of Arctic exploration in his time. His work later influenced Roald Amundsen.
The monument is located near the Svalbard Hotell in downtown Longyearbyen. It was created by artists Olaf Storø and Arne Askeland; Astrup's figure is carved from a single piece of Sitka spruce.
I think it’s one of those little gems you could easily walk right past if you just stick to the standard tourist route.
📍 The University
Along the way, I also spotted UNIS—the University Centre in Svalbard.
It’s an absolutely mind-blowing location for a university: studies here essentially take place in a real-life polar laboratory. Students study Arctic biology, geology, geophysics, and Arctic-related technologies.
The very presence of this university captures the essence of Longyearbyen perfectly: it’s not an open-air museum or an exclusively tourist town—people actually live, study, and work here.
📍 The Hospital
Another detail I noticed on my walk was the local hospital.
Funnily enough, two months after this stroll, I found myself back here—not as a tourist, but for a doctor's appointment.
Longyearbyen Hospital has a rather unusual status. It’s not a large mainland-style hospital, but a facility with limited capabilities providing primary and emergency medical care; complex cases are airlifted to the mainland, usually to Tromsø, if necessary.
So, just having fully functional medical care in such a remote place is impressive in itself.
📍 Dormitories and Everyday Life in Longyearbyen
Besides the sights, I wandered past dorms and regular residential buildings.
And that’s interesting too—seeing Longyearbyen not as a checklist of tourist spots, but as a real little town where people work, study, go grocery shopping, live in dorms, and just go about their daily routines.
Set against the backdrop of mountains and the Arctic desert, this completely ordinary life feels a little surreal.
📍 Bruktikken — Giving Things a Second Life
Now, this is one of my favorite details about Longyearbyen.
They have Bruktikken—a reuse shop, kind of a local thrift store. You can drop off things you no longer use, or take something you need. Many items are given away for free. Right now, the racks are filled with clothes, books, bedding, and various household items.
To me, this concept is especially brilliant in the context of Svalbard.
Here, it’s crucial that things don’t turn into garbage that somehow has to be shipped back to the mainland. So, instead of the usual "buy-use-throw away" cycle, a circular system emerges: one person drops something off, and another comes by and claims it.
It’s essentially the philosophy of giving things a second life and a fantastic example of how a small, remote community can cut down on waste.
And I think it’s way more interesting than just another tourist souvenir shop.
📍 The Global Seed Vault
Of course, I can't skip over the Svalbard Global Seed Vault.
It’s one of Longyearbyen's most famous landmarks: the vault itself is deep inside the mountain, while the iconic concrete entrance is visible from the outside.
However, regular tourists aren’t allowed inside.
I decided not to waste time just to walk up to the front door for a picture. 😄 So, I don't have any photos of the vault myself. I'll just use a random one from the internet for the article.
If you’re planning your route, you can definitely add it—just keep the distance from the center in mind.
📍 The Cemetery and the Myth That "Dying is Illegal in Svalbard"
Another unusual spot is Longyearbyen's old cemetery.
This is the origin of the famous phrase that "dying is illegal in Svalbard."
In reality, that's a bit of a tourist oversimplification. The issue is the permafrost: bodies in the frozen ground are preserved for a very long time, and the shifting ground can eventually push them up to the surface. Because of this, traditional burials are practically no longer done here.
Births here are a unique situation too: the medical system on Svalbard is limited, and expectant mothers or complex patients are sent to the mainland.
It turns out to be an incredible place where even the most natural events of human life have to be meticulously planned around the local environment.
🏔️ Just Walking Around Longyearbyen
And that, perhaps, is the main takeaway.
You don’t have to turn a day trip into a frantic race between landmarks. I found it fascinating simply to walk from the port through the streets, looking at the colorful houses, old mining structures, dormitories, the university, and the people who actually call this place home.
Longyearbyen gives the impression of a place that exists almost in defiance of the surrounding nature.
It has a supermarket with a "no weapons allowed" sign, a Lutheran church, a university, a hospital, mines, monuments to polar explorers, and a shop where unneeded things get a second life.
And all of this is set amidst mountains, glaciers, and the Arctic desert.
If you happen to have more time, you can always add the Seed Vault, a museum, or a trip to a husky farm to this itinerary.
I arrived in Longyearbyen from Barentsburg on a tiny motorboat and just went for a walk—no strict plan and no pressure to see absolutely everything.
And that’s probably exactly why this day stuck with me so much: Longyearbyen turned out to be captivating not just for its sights, but for the everyday reality of life on the 78th parallel.