At Xiwuyan Tower, witnessing the sunset and starry sky in a clash
Jinshanling Xiwuyan Tower: Walk one more hour westward, and the Great Wall's sunset belongs only to you
While most people put away their cameras at General Tower, I stepped on broken bricks and walked west. The city wall gradually became dilapidated, the battlements missing corners, wild grass sprouting from the cracks between the bricks, but the ridge's curve became clearer—the Great Wall looked like a faded giant dragon, its spine gently undulating in the dusk. Xiwuyan Tower lay on the steepest mountain peak, its five arrow slits like open eyes gazing at the distant dark mountains.
🌇 When the sunset kisses the broken bricks, every crack glows
“This is how the Great Wall should look.” Old Zhou, a photographer I met by chance, was setting up his tripod with the lens aimed at Xiwuyan Tower. He said that during peak season, the main scenic area is so crowded you can't get a clear shot, but here, staying from afternoon until sunset, you can have the entire section of the wall to yourself.
As the sun began to sink, a miracle happened—the golden-red light climbed along the ridge, first dyeing the flying eaves of the enemy tower yellow, then spreading over the mottled brick walls, even the dry grass in the brick cracks shimmered with golden light. At a gap in a broken brick, the sunlight formed a beam, like a candle inserted into the ancient wall. Old Zhou kept pressing the shutter: “Look at those five arrow slits, the sunset shines through them one by one from left to right, like the tower is blinking.”
The wind whistled through the arrow slits. Touching the varying depths of bullet marks on the wall, I suddenly understood why some say “the broken Great Wall is more moving”—those cracks hold the weight of time, and when the sunset gilds them, tragedy and tenderness strangely blend together.
🌌 When the starry sky descends, the enemy tower becomes a beacon of the night
Don’t rush down the mountain after sunset. Wait until the sky is completely dark, and stars will suddenly fill the sky. The Great Wall’s outline becomes a gray-black line in the night, and the silhouette of Xiwuyan Tower looks like a lonely castle. Old Zhou taught me to use long exposure photography; the starlight drags trails in the lens, intertwining with the curves of the wall, like tying a silver ribbon around the earth.
“Soldiers guarding the tower before probably watched the stars like this too, right?” He handed me a cup of hot coffee. “Maybe they counted which star was the brightest, which section of the wall cast the longest shadow.” The village lights in the distance were just a few scattered points, making the starry sky especially clear. The moss on the bricks carried moisture in the night, quietly telling stories of six hundred years of wind and rain.
📍 Practical Guide
- Transportation: Drive 2.5 hours from Beijing to the main entrance of Jinshanling Scenic Area, take the scenic area shuttle to the brick battlement, then hike west for 1 hour (the path is wild, wear anti-slip shoes and bring trekking poles); farmhouses at the scenic area entrance offer shuttle service for 10 RMB per person.
- Best time: Mid-October (the trees on the ridge turn yellow, creating layers with the gray-brown of the Great Wall), choose a sunny day, enter after 3 PM to catch the sunset perfectly.
- Must bring: Flashlight (needed for lighting when descending after sunset); light jacket (it’s windy at the top and cools quickly after sunset); high-calorie snacks to replenish energy on the hike.
- Hidden tip: On the east side of Xiwuyan Tower, the third brick has a small indentation, a natural “sunset frame.” Old Zhou said this is a secret passed down among photographers for ten years.
When leaving, the moonlight was shining on the arrow slits of Xiwuyan Tower. Looking back, the silent wall in the night felt more solemn than during the day. Suddenly I understood why some people are so persistent about the wild Great Wall—here there is no neat restoration, but the most authentic traces of time are hidden. When the sunset gilds it, you realize: true greatness never fears showing its age.
For which scenery are you willing to walk a few extra miles? Share in the comments~