Hidden hiking trails in South Tyrol, northern Italy
🚠🥾 April empty town hike | Cable car + train + earth pyramids, South Tyrol still speaks German
In early April, arrive at the cable car station near Bolzano train station (Via Renon 12), buy a ticket for the Renon cable car — a 10-minute ride up to Soprabolzano (1,220 m). When the doors open, the cold wind from the southern Alps mixed with the scent of melting snow hits your face. At that moment, you understand: April in the Dolomites is the snowmelt season, with few visitors entering the mountains and most villages appearing deserted, but in return — the entire Renon plateau feels like it’s all yours.
🚠 Location and transport chain (guide version)
Full route: Bolzano city center → Renon cable car up to Soprabolzano → transfer to Renon train (Trenino del Renon) → Collalbo (Klobenstein, elevation 1,154 m) terminal → hike past the earth pyramids → toward St. Nicholas church → continue to the small village of Longostagno → bus back to Bolzano.
· Bolzano cable car station: Via Renon 12, 39100 Bolzano, right next to the train station, within walking distance.
· Renon train: departs from Soprabolzano station, about 20 minutes to Collalbo terminal, with 180-degree views of the Dolomite peaks along the way.
· Earth pyramids (Piramidi di terra): about 2 km walk from Collalbo following signs. These unique formations are created by glaciers and soil erosion. The mud pillars often have a large stone on top, resembling Gothic church spires.
· Total hiking distance: Collalbo → earth pyramids → St. Nicholas church → Longostagno, about 6 to 7 km. Paths can be slippery in April, so waterproof hiking shoes are recommended.
⚠️ April key reminder: During the snowmelt season, many low-star hotels, restaurants, and visitor centers in villages remain closed, and bus service is sparse. Be sure to check return bus times on the Südtirolmobil app before you go or keep cash handy for taxis.
🥾 How to enjoy the "empty town hike" properly
① Cable car + train: Bolzano’s backyard
The Renon plateau is known as "Bolzano’s backyard," averaging over 1,000 m in elevation, with unobstructed views of the Dolomites in the distance. When you take the cable car up, the entire city of Bolzano and the distant Dolomite peaks spread out beneath you — this "city to alpine meadow" transition happens in just minutes. The old-fashioned wooden seats on the rattling train to Collalbo offer views of the brownish snowmelt meadows and white peaks far away. The "Alpine light" season hasn’t arrived yet, but the black, white, and gray snowmelt tones have their own stark beauty.
② Earth pyramids: the glacier’s strange masterpiece left on Renon
Get off at Collalbo and walk 2 km on flat ground to the earth pyramids. When you get close, you’ll be stunned — slender triangular mud pillars topped with "mushroom cap" stones, looking like miniature Gothic church spires or the stone forests of Cappadocia, Turkey. In April, there are few people. Standing among the pillars, you might caption your photo: "The glacier left, but this pillar remains as its calling card."
③ St. Nicholas church + Longostagno: the empty town scene
Continue past the earth pyramids to St. Nicholas church — a typical South Tyrolean mountain village chapel with bright yellow walls and a Gothic spire. Still eager to explore, keep walking to the small village of Longostagno.
The moment you enter the village, it truly feels like an "empty town":
· The three low-star hotels in the village are all closed, windows dusty;
· No one is seen on the streets; later you find out villagers are attending mass in the church;
· A local who speaks English comes out and kindly tells you how to take the bus back to Bolzano.
💡 This scene is the most touching detail of the whole story — a German-speaking mountain village in South Tyrol where Sunday mass remains the community’s heartbeat. As a visitor, you unexpectedly connect with the village’s true pulse through this mass.
④ Bus back to Bolzano
Follow the local’s directions to take the bus down the mountain back to Bolzano. In April, this bus may run only a few times a day, so be sure to confirm the last bus time before boarding — otherwise, you might end up waiting for help by the empty village church.
✨ Special tips (anti-mainstream version)
· "Snowmelt season exclusive" package: Visiting in April means avoiding the tourist rush of July and August. You can freely photograph the earth pyramids and have the entire village of Longostagno to yourself for the "empty town" experience. The trade-off is cold, damp conditions and some facilities closed — but in return, you get the luxury of having the whole Renon plateau to yourself.
· Best time: Early to mid-April is the tail end of snowmelt season. The snow line starts to retreat, Dolomite peaks remain white, and the meadows at the foot of the mountains begin to turn green. Morning cable car up, afternoon hike, and evening bus back is the safest plan.
· What to wear: Waterproof hiking shoes + light down jacket + windbreaker. Daytime temperatures on the Renon plateau in April are about 10–15°C, with large temperature swings between day and night.
· Language note: In Bolzano city, you’ll hear Italian, but once you enter the mountain villages, German signs and greetings dominate — South Tyrol is the only area in Italy where German is the everyday language. Your cable car + train trip from Bolzano to Longostagno is essentially a cultural "crossing" from Italy into the Austrian cultural sphere.
🏔️📜 A quick note: why is this area "German-speaking Italy"?
· Geography: The Dolomites are located in South Tyrol on the southern slope of the Alps, at the border of Italy, Germany, and Switzerland. It’s called the "backyard of the Alps." The Renon plateau is a microcosm of Bolzano’s backyard — alpine meadows, pastures, vineyards, and mountain towns contrast sharply with the towering Dolomite peaks around.
· History: Before World War I, South Tyrol belonged to Austria, with a predominantly German-speaking population. After the war, the eastern mountainous part of South Tyrol was officially annexed by Italy, but most mountain residents still spoke German. Today, South Tyrol (officially the Autonomous Province of Bolzano–South Tyrol) is the only area in Italy where German is the daily language, with 69% German speakers — the English-speaking local you met in Longostagno likely has grandparents who considered themselves Austrian all their lives.
· Culture: South Tyrol preserves Austro-Hungarian mountain culture — bright yellow churches, German village names, Sunday mass, Speck smoked ham, Canederli bread dumplings, Apfelstrudel apple strudel. Walking through the empty village of Longostagno, you feel a cultural dissonance: on the map, it’s Italy; your ears hear German; your eyes see an Austrian-style mountain village.
· World War I memory: The Dolomite mountains were a core battlefield of the "White War" (1915–1918) between Austria-Hungary and Italy, with the two armies facing off along three sharp ridges at 2,900 m elevation for three years. The tunnels, trenches, and cables left in the mountains today form the "world’s best-preserved open-air World War I Alpine museum" — the Collalbo → Longostagno hiking trail you walk may have been the same route soldiers used to transport supplies a century ago.
So when you come to Renon in early April, you’re not just "sightseeing" — the cable car pulls you from the Italian-speaking area into the German-speaking zone, the earth pyramids remind you that glaciers are the true masters here, the empty village and church mass let you catch South Tyrol’s real heartbeat, and the rural bus ride back is the farewell gift from this "German-speaking island in Italy." 🚠🥾
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