Summer in Fuzhou Xiyuan Palace: A Journey Through Ancient and Modern Landscapes and Culture
In July, Fuzhou is filled with the sounds of cicadas and waves of heat. When the city is shrouded in summer warmth, I followed the guidance of ancient texts and modern travel tips to embark on a summer retreat and exploration to Xiyuan Palace in Minhou County. This millennium-old Taoist temple, hidden on the southern slope of Longtan Mountain, not only carries the profound heritage of Taoist culture but also, with its natural mountain and water scenery, has become a well-kept summer cool spot for locals in Fuzhou.
Morning Light: Tracing the Ancient Path At six in the morning, I drove along Lianrong Road toward Rongqiao Village, with the navigation set to the coordinates of "Xiyuan Palace." Passing through the archway inscribed with "Marvelous Heavenly Charm," the winding mountain road was shaded by bamboo groves and banyan trees. Morning mist drifted through the stream valley, as if stepping into a traditional ink painting. Halfway up the mountain, the palace gate stood majestically—the three-tiered horse-head wall archway bore the bold characters "Xiyuan Palace," with golden dragons coiling on both sides. Despite years of weathering, it still exuded dignity. A century-old banyan tree stood silently like a guardian, with dappled sunlight flickering on the bluestone slabs beneath, as if telling the ancient legend of Master Zhang subduing dragons and turtles.
A Millennium-Old Temple: Tao Follows Nature Crossing the palace gate, the halls of the True Man, the Three Lords, and the Peng Li Lion Lords unfolded in sequence. Though the concrete structures are modern reconstructions, they perfectly replicate the Song Dynasty layout of "facing south while sitting north, arranged horizontally." On the right side of the True Man Hall, the cliff inscription "Xiyuan Ancient Site" is particularly striking. The 2.6-meter-long stone wall features Ming Dynasty-style carved characters "Xiyuan Ancient Site," each about 50 cm tall, echoing the record in "Rongcheng Archaeological Notes" that states "worshiping Master Zhang, commonly called Xiyuan Palace." Inside the hall, 31 statues of gods display varied expressions, and the three-meter-tall white horse sculpture is lifelike, evoking the ancient feng shui concept of "the True Man gaining the land of the Threefold Mountain."
Wandering among the temple buildings, my fingers brushed the weathered brick walls. Cliff inscriptions from the Ming and Qing dynasties quietly emerged on the back mountain. Stone carvings such as "Mighty Guard of Xiyuan" and "A World Apart" harmonize with natural stones named "Jade Rabbit Playing with the Moon" and "Gathering of the Eight Immortals," as if nature and culture have reached a tacit understanding here. Standing before the "One Line Sky" scenic spot, sunlight slanted through the stone crevice, forming a golden beam that vividly embodied the imagery of "strange rocks leaning on clouds, cutting through the mist" from the "Min Du Bie Ji."
Cool by the Stream: Summer Revelry In the afternoon, Xiyuan Palace comes alive thanks to the stream. Originating from Yongtai and Minqing, the stream is blocked by Longtan Mountain, forming a deep pool where schools of fish swim. Legend has it that a flood dragon once appeared here. I changed into creek shoes and stepped into the stream; the icy water instantly dispelled the heat. Children chased fish and shrimp with nets, while young people set up canopy tents on the shallow banks. Smoke from barbecue grills mingled with the mist, filling the air with the fresh scent of charcoal and mountain spring.
Walking upstream, I met a few local villagers fishing. They told me the stream is rich in "stream shrimp," which are sweet and tender. In the evening, cooking soup with stream water and homegrown water spinach is the most authentic "Xiyuan Palace flavor." For more thrilling water activities, you can head to the upstream "Xiaobai Shuiyang" area, where the water flows gently, perfect for kayaking. The primitive forest on both banks forms a canopy, making you feel like you are in the Amazon rainforest.
Dusk Falls: Red Memories As the sun set, I unexpectedly discovered that the village history museum beside the temple is a red education base. On the weathered walls, historical photos of the secret 1947 meeting of the Communist Party’s Min-Zhe-Gan Regional Committee stood out. The guide, an elderly man with white hair and a strong local accent, recounted, "Back then, revolutionaries like Wu Chunren and Huang Guozhang used their charcoal-selling cover to pass intelligence and protect comrades in these mountains." Exhibits of old radios and telegraph machines contrasted intriguingly with the incense burners and prayer flags inside the temple, making one marvel at how this land carries both the transcendence of Taoism and the faith forged in blood and fire.
Overnight in the Wilderness: Starry Sky as a Blanket For a deep experience of Xiyuan Palace’s summer nights, camping is a great choice. The village’s "Hidden Garden Camping Base" offers riverside tents, hotel-style rooms, KTV private rooms, and even farm-style dinner reservations. As city lights gradually fade, fireflies begin to light up the night sky. Lying in the tent, the symphony of stream water and insect chirps fills the ears, and looking up reveals the Milky Way stretching across the sky—at this moment, I suddenly understood why the ancients built temples here: this is not only a place for spiritual cultivation but also a window for dialogue between humans and nature.
Summer at Xiyuan Palace is a blend of history and modernity, a resonance of nature and culture. When the city’s noise fades and the mountain breeze brushes my face, I suddenly realize: escaping the heat is not just about fleeing high temperatures but finding a secret place where the soul can rest. And Xiyuan Palace is exactly such a place.
1. Essential Items List
1. Water Play Essentials: creek shoes, non-slip slippers, change of clothes, dry towel, waterproof phone pouch—change clothes promptly after water activities.
2. Leisure Essentials: picnic mat, sun-protective clothing, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, sunglasses, hat—mountain areas have many insects, so prepare accordingly.
3. Other Supplies: a small amount of drinking water, snacks, band-aids, wet wipes—travel light.
4. Special Items: bring your own tea set to enjoy tea by the stream and enhance the atmosphere.
2. Travel Tips
1. Safety First: stream depths vary; stay in shallow areas for water play. Children must be accompanied by parents at all times. Avoid deep pools and slippery rock climbing alone. Do not enter the water within two hours after rain due to rising water levels and slippery surfaces.
2. Environmental Care: the area is a pristine mountain wilderness with no dedicated cleaning staff. Please take your trash with you to protect the mountain and stream environment.
3. Civilized Behavior: keep quiet in the Xiyuan Palace Taoist temple, avoid loud noises, do not touch ancient buildings or artifacts, do not damage plants or historical sites, and respect religious customs.
4. Travel Advice: summer midday temperatures are high; take sun protection and heat prevention measures. Some parts of the ancient trail are shady and damp; walk carefully to avoid slipping.
5. Facilities Notice: the village has simple changing rooms built by locals for convenience after water activities. There are no large supermarkets nearby, so prepare necessary items in advance.