Aomori's Ashino Park - Tracing the Childhood Footsteps of Japanese Literary Master Osamu Dazai
Even under gloomy skies, the spring charm of Ashino Park remains undiminished. Located in Goshogawara City, Aomori Prefecture, this expansive park is imbued with a literary aura thanks to its connection to the childhood of renowned author Osamu Dazai. It is also celebrated for its 1,500 cherry trees, which have earned it a spot among Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Viewing Sites. Spanning 80 hectares, the park's pale pink and white blossoms envelop the nostalgic Tsugaru Railway. The moment the train passes through the cherry blossom tunnel, the sound of camera shutters fills the air, creating an iconic scene cherished by travelers.
Chasing Cherry Blossoms with the Train
Despite the chilly weather, the platform is already crowded with photography enthusiasts armed with tripods, eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Tsugaru Railway's "Run! Melos" train as it enters the cherry blossom tunnel. As the train slowly pulls into the station, cherry branches gently brush against its roof, and petals fall like snowflakes. Everyone holds their breath, capturing this fleeting moment of romance. Even outside the cherry blossom season, the Tsugaru Railway attracts visitors with its seasonal themed trains—such as the nostalgic winter stove train, which adds a touch of storytelling to this 20-kilometer railway.
Strolling Through the Intersection of Literature and Nature
Leaving the bustling station behind, the park itself feels tranquil. A walk along the shores of Lake Ashino reveals literary monuments and statues of Osamu Dazai standing quietly beneath the cherry trees, as if offering a glimpse into the writer's youthful days of play. The lake reflects the weeping cherry blossoms and suspension bridge, while occasional visitors paddle by in small boats, adding a poetic touch to the scene. If time permits, consider visiting the café "Eki-sha," housed in a repurposed old station building. Here, you can savor a local specialty—horse meat curry—while soaking in the timeless atmosphere of the Showa-era wooden interior.
Practical Tips and Advice
From Hirosaki or Aomori, take the JR line to Goshogawara Station, then transfer to the Tsugaru Railway to reach "Ashino Park Station," a journey of about 20 minutes. During the cherry blossom festival (late April to early May), additional trains are scheduled, so it's advisable to check the timetable in advance. The park offers free parking, making it convenient for those driving. Nearby, you can also visit "Kizukuri Station," known for its giant clay figurine statue and retro station building, both of which are listed among Tohoku's Top 100 Stations, adding an extra layer of surprise to your trip.
Epilogue: Imperfect Perfection
Though the overcast skies may slightly dull the cherry blossoms' hues, they unexpectedly highlight the intricate lines of the railway and branches. Travelers, whether picnicking or setting up tripods, share photography tips while waiting for the train, adding a warm human touch to this cherry blossom chase. Perhaps, as depicted in Osamu Dazai's writings about Tsugaru, the beauty of Ashino Park lies in its simplicity and authenticity—even when the weather isn't ideal, it doesn't diminish the timeless emotions it evokes.