Hidden in the rice fields is a 'Chang'an of the Northeast,' where a thousand-year-old stone lantern still shines.
Balhae Kingdom Ruins: A 'Chang'an of the East Sea' hidden in the Northeast, where a thousand-year-old stone lantern awaits its returnees.
As soon as we stepped onto the rammed earth of the ruins, my foot kicked a piece of patterned broken brick – our guide, Old Li, bent down to pick it up, his fingertips tracing the scroll patterns. 'This is a corner piece of a palace floor tile, fired back then in imitation of Chang'an's Daming Palace. Look at this glaze, it's identical to those unearthed in Xi'an.' In the distance, the ruins of Suzaku Avenue, earthen ridges drew straight lines across the fields. 'A thousand years ago, this street was 40 meters wide, wide enough for eight chariots to run abreast.'
🏰 Chang'an's Shadow in the Earthen Ridges
'The entire city was built following the blueprint of Chang'an,' Old Li said, standing on the high platform of the palace area, pointing to the square grids beneath his feet. 'The palace city was in the north, the imperial city in the south, and there were three markets each in the east and west. Even the dimensions of the residential blocks were almost identical.' Beneath a certain field ridge, half a column base stone was exposed, its grooves still clear. 'It supported the main beams of the palace. The craftsmen were invited from Chang'an back then, and they said this 'cross tenon' structure could withstand the strong winds of the Northeast.'
What was most striking was the Suzaku Gate ruins, where the remaining gate tower earth platforms stood like two silent giants. 'If you stand in the middle of the gate and look south,' Old Li gestured for us to look up, 'the distant mountains align perfectly, exactly like Chang'an City's Suzaku Gate facing Mount Zhongnan.' The wind swept across the fields, and the sound of rolling rice waves somehow resembled the hustle and bustle of the market back then.
🏮 The 'Unextinguished Fire' of the Stone Lantern Pagoda
The stone lantern pagoda on the west side of the ruins is the city's brightest 'eye'. On the octagonal lantern base, the carved lotus petals still have their edges, and within the intertwining branch patterns on the lantern column, tiny chisel marks are visible. 'This is the craftsmanship of Balhae artisans, more robust than Chang'an's, with a frontier spirit.'
Old Li said that this lantern pagoda used to burn continuously. 'Pine nut oil was used; it produced little smoke and was especially long-lasting.' The grooves at the base were filled with thick pine needles. 'They were blown here by the wind, as if knowing that a lamp was always lit here back then.' The setting sun shone on the stone lantern, casting eight-pointed shadows on the ground, like a blooming lotus.
🌾 The 'Dynasty Code' in the Rice Fields
The rice fields surrounding the ruins are flourishing. 'This land was once the official granary,' Old Li said, pushing aside the soil at the edge of the field, revealing a curved pottery shard. 'It's a tile from the granary. Look at its curve; water would slide off very quickly when it rained, so the grain wouldn't get damp.'
Wildflowers on the field ridges were a vibrant purple. 'These are called 'Mohe flowers,' and the people of Balhae loved to plant them,' Old Li said, picking one and handing it to me. 'They were the Mohe people, and they embroidered these flowers on their robes. Placed alongside Chang'an's peony patterns, they weren't inferior at all.' From the distant farmhouse, the sound of rice milling could be heard. 'It's almost identical to the sound of the granary's mill back then.'
Practical Guide
· Transportation: 30-minute drive from Ning'an City (take Bohai Avenue, there are ruin signs along the way, parking lot 5 RMB/day); take the bus to Bohai Town from Ning'an Bus Station, get off at the Ruins Park, walk 5 minutes. The journey takes 40 minutes, costs 3 RMB, and buses run hourly.
· Best Time: July (rice fields are lush green, the stone lantern pagoda appears more ancient against the rice fields); October (rice is golden, the earthy yellow of the ruins blends with the autumn colors, suitable for capturing a sense of desolation). Avoid winter (the ruins are covered in snow, some areas are closed, and it's very windy and cold).
· Must-bring: Sun hat (no shade in summer, strong UV rays); light jacket (gets cool when the wind picks up in the evening); drinking water (no shops in the scenic area, recommended to bring your own).
· Hidden Gems: Find 'matching items' in the Ruins Museum (compare the broken brick fragments you found with exhibits in the museum to see if they belong to the same building); listen to Old Li sing 'Balhae tunes' (tunes passed down by local elders, said to resemble ancient court music, both desolate and expansive).
As we left, harvesters were working in the rice fields, their roar startling a flock of sparrows. Looking back, the shadow of the stone lantern pagoda stretched long in the setting sun, as if waving goodbye to us. Suddenly, I understood that this city buried in the rice fields had never truly disappeared – it had transformed into rice, into wildflowers, into the sound of the wind sweeping across the fields, quietly living for a thousand years on the black soil of the Northeast.
What other 'ancient sites hidden in the fields' have you seen? Share in the comments!