Zhejiang hides an "underground Jiangnan" where the summer heat instantly disappears upon entering the village.
This 800-year-old village in Pujiang, Jinhua, is a summer retreat I discovered this year.
Before entering the village, I wondered: just an ordinary ancient village? But the moment I stepped into the dark stream culvert, the 35-degree heat instantly vanished. The rushing water echoed beneath my feet on the stone archway—this wasn't an ancient village; it was clearly a natural air-conditioned room left to us by the ancients.
The two streams, the bright and the dark, are the soul of Songxi.
The most unique feature of Songxi Ancient Village is these two streams.
The bright stream flows along the streets and alleys, reflecting the white walls and black tiles. Koi carp swirl in the water, creating a scene of shimmering light and shadow—every snapshot looks like a traditional Chinese ink painting of Jiangnan. But what truly gave me goosebumps was the dark stream—a 700-meter-long underground stone culvert built by the Southern Song Dynasty using arch technology, completely concealing the stream beneath the village, leaving only a few water inlets connecting to the road.
Standing at the water intake and looking down, the water was bottomless, and a cool breeze wafted out. Descending the steps, large, neatly arranged arches of limestone stood on either side, barely two meters wide at their narrowest point, with the lowest arch reaching about 1.6 meters. Dim yellow lights illuminated the crystal-clear water, and you could hear voices coming from the houses above.
In summer, villagers would bring tables and chairs directly into the dark stream to cool off. I went in for less than five minutes, and the hairs on my arms stood on end—the temperature dropped at least ten degrees, more comfortable than air conditioning.
A small reminder: the stone slabs in the dark stream are damp year-round, so be sure to wear non-slip shoes and bring a light jacket. If you're sensitive to the cold, don't stay too long.
The Hundred Sons Stone Wall and the Square and Round Gates: Hidden Romance of Our Ancestors
Walking through the alleys, you'll notice the walls are different—dark red, grayish-brown, and bluish-gray pebbles of varying sizes are piled together; locals call them "Hundred Sons Stones."
These stones are actually the waste residue left over from burning limestone. After limestone is calcined at high temperatures in a kiln, the resulting slag is light, hard, porous, and colored. The ancients, unwilling to discard it, used it for building walls and houses. Unexpectedly, this inadvertently created the unique texture of Songxi. The "Hundred Sons Stone" (百子石) is a homophone for "hundred sons" (百子), symbolizing many children, blessings, and family prosperity—a very auspicious name.
The bridge pavilion at the village entrance is even more interesting, with a square door on the east and a round door on the west. Local custom dictates that people leave home in the morning through the square door, signifying "traveling far and wide, but remaining upright"; and return home in the evening through the round door, signifying "reunion with family." The round door is wider and higher than the square door, symbolizing the hope that those who have gone out to work will return home in glory.
I deliberately walked back and forth twice, silently reciting "remain upright" when leaving and "reunite" when returning, experiencing a strange sense of ritual.
How to Get There and What to Do
Address: Songxi Village, Baima Town, Pujiang County, Jinhua City, Zhejiang Province. Simply navigate to "Songxi Ancient Village".
Transportation:
· Driving is the most convenient option. It takes about 1.5 hours from Hangzhou, about 1 hour from Jinhua city center, and 40 minutes from Yiwu. There is a free parking lot at the village entrance, but spaces are limited, so it's recommended to arrive before 10:00 AM.
· Take the high-speed train to Pujiang Station, then take a taxi (about 25-30 minutes, costing 30-40 RMB); alternatively, take a bus from Yiwu Station to Pujiang and then a taxi.
Admission: Free. The ancestral hall is also free to visit.
Suggested Visit Duration: 2-3 hours is sufficient for a leisurely stroll. Half a day is recommended for climbing the Daling Ancient Trail to overlook the entire village. Staying overnight to experience the morning mist and night view is also an option.
Best Season: Spring and autumn (April-May and September-November) are the most comfortable, with clear streams and pleasant weather. Honestly, summer is the best time to visit – after all, the Anxi River provides natural cooling, so you won't feel the heat outside.
Suggested Itinerary:
Follow this order to avoid getting lost:
Village Entrance Parking Lot → Liji Bridge Pavilion (Fangyuan Gate photo opportunity) → Xu Clan Ancestral Hall (Yanyi Hall, stunningly beautiful carved beams and painted rafters) → Mingxi Stroll (reflections, koi carp viewing) → Anxi Culvert (bring a flashlight for amazing exploration) → Shao Clan Ancestral Hall (well-preserved Qing Dynasty murals) → Baizi Stone Alley (perfect for photos) → Find food at the village entrance
What to Eat:
The village entrance shops offer several authentic snacks you shouldn't miss:
· Dried Plum Vegetable Wheat Cake: A Pujiang intangible cultural heritage, crispy on the outside, savory with dried plum vegetable and meat filling, crumbly in every bite, only a few yuan per person.
· Fried Ash Soup Cake: A Pujiang specialty, chewy with a slightly alkaline flavor, freshly fried at the village entrance snack shop, very fragrant. - Beef Broth: Simmered beef bones for hours, the broth is rich and flavorful, the beef is tender and aromatic. It's warming in autumn and winter, and refreshing in summer with an iced drink.
· Iced Wood Lotus: A local specialty for cooling down in the summer, around 5 yuan a cup, refreshing and not greasy.
You can eat your fill for about 30 yuan per person. If you want a proper farm-style meal, there are several farmhouses in the village; their free-range chicken soup, bamboo-smoked ham, and rice-sieve-crawfish are worth trying.
A few words of advice:
· Some areas of Anxi are dimly lit; a phone flashlight is sufficient, but bring a small flashlight if you want to take pictures of reflections.
· The cobblestone paths are damp year-round; be sure to wear non-slip flat shoes. High heels can easily cause falls.
· The village is not very commercialized; the shops close around 4 or 5 pm, so bring your own snacks and drinks.
· Anxi is cold; those with weaker constitutions should bring a light jacket and avoid staying in the cold for too long.
· If you want to take photos of an empty ancient village, go between 7 and 8 am. The morning mist and cooking smoke create an immersive atmosphere.
Songxi Ancient Village isn't one of those overly polished, trendy ancient towns. It has 800 years of rustic charm, the smoke of lime kilns, and the wisdom of its ancestors flowing through the underground stream. Here, you don't need to rush to see the sights. Just find a stone step to sit on, listen to the babbling brook below, and watch the old ladies weaving bamboo baskets at their doorsteps—it's incredibly soothing.
Next weekend, if you don't want to be crammed in, come here for a day of escape.