How to Spend a Mystifying Week in Albania
Hidden bunkers. Ancient ruins buried in the forest. A spring so blue it looks unreal. Stone cities clinging to mountainsides. For decades, Albania was one of the most closed-off countries in the world, and even now it feels like Europe’s last great secret.
That’s exactly what makes it so magical. In one week, you can wander a capital full of colour and Cold War mysteries, sleep in UNESCO towns that look frozen in time, and swim in turquoise water that rivals Greece at a fraction of the price.
Here’s how to do it.
Route: Tirana → Berat → Albanian Riviera → Ksamil → Gjirokastër → Tirana
Best time to go: May to June or September to October, for warm weather without the summer crowds
Getting around: Rent a car. Buses exist, but a car gives you the freedom to stop at hidden beaches and mountain viewpoints.
Day 1: Tirana, the Colourful Capital
Start in Tirana, a city that’s reinvented itself with bright painted buildings, buzzing cafés and a fascinating, slightly eerie past.
Morning: Walk around Skanderbeg Square, the city’s heart, then visit the Et’hem Bey Mosque with its delicate frescoes.
Afternoon: Step underground at Bunk’Art, a huge Cold War bunker turned museum. Its tunnels and rooms tell the story of Albania’s years of isolation, and it’s one of the most memorable museums in the Balkans.
Evening: Head to Blloku, once a neighbourhood reserved for the communist elite, now packed with bars and restaurants.
Tip: Ride the Dajti Ekspres cable car up Mount Dajti for sunset views over the city.
Day 2: Berat, the Town of a Thousand Windows
Drive about two hours south to Berat, a UNESCO-listed town where white Ottoman houses stack up the hillside, their windows staring out over the river.
Morning: Explore the Mangalem and Gorica quarters, linked by an old stone bridge.
Afternoon: Climb to Berat Castle, where people still live inside the ancient walls. Wander its lanes, Byzantine churches and viewpoints.
Evening: Try local wine and traditional dishes in a family-run restaurant.
Tip: Stay overnight in a restored Ottoman guesthouse for the full experience.
Day 3: Over the Llogara Pass to the Riviera
Today is all about the drive. Head south via Vlorë and climb the dramatic Llogara Pass, where pine forests suddenly give way to jaw-dropping views of the Ionian Sea far below.
Afternoon: Descend to Dhërmi or Himarë, two of the Riviera’s prettiest seaside villages.
Evening: Fresh seafood dinner by the water.
Tip: Stop at the viewpoints on the pass. The view is one of the most spectacular in Europe.
Day 4: Beach Hopping on the Albanian Riviera
Spend a slow day doing what the Riviera does best: crystal-clear water and secret coves.
Morning: Hike down to Gjipe Beach, a hidden cove tucked at the end of a canyon. It takes a little effort to reach, which keeps it wonderfully quiet.
Afternoon: Drive the coastal road, stopping at Porto Palermo to see a small fortress sitting on a peninsula, once linked to Ali Pasha.
Evening: Sunset drinks in Himarë’s old town.
Tip: Bring water shoes. Many beaches here are pebbly.
Day 5: Ksamil and the Ancient City of Butrint
Head further south to Ksamil, where tiny islands float in turquoise water just offshore.
Morning: Visit Butrint National Park, one of Albania’s most mysterious sites. Ruins of a Greek settlement, later a Roman city and early Christian centre, are scattered through the forest beside a lagoon. You’ll find an ancient theatre, mosaics and a hilltop Venetian castle with a small museum.
Budget: The standard Butrint ticket is 1,000 lek, around €10.
Afternoon: Swim or paddle out to Ksamil’s islands.
Tip: Go to Butrint early in the morning, before the heat and the tour groups arrive.
Day 6: The Blue Eye and Gjirokastër, the Stone City
Morning: Drive inland to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a natural spring where icy water bubbles up from a deep, bright blue pool. Nobody has ever reached the bottom, which only adds to the mystery.
Afternoon: Continue to Gjirokastër, another UNESCO town, built almost entirely of grey stone with slate roofs. Explore the old bazaar and climb to the massive Gjirokastër Castle, one of the largest fortresses in the Balkans.
Evening: Visit the town’s Cold War tunnel, a secret bunker built beneath the city.
Tip: Try qifqi, Gjirokastër’s local speciality of fried rice balls with herbs.
Day 7: Back to Tirana
Drive back north to Tirana, around four to five hours, stopping for lunch along the way. Spend your last evening with a final stroll and a coffee in one of the city’s many cafés. Albanians take their coffee culture seriously.
Tip: Flying out of the south instead? Consider ending your trip with a ferry from Saranda to Corfu in Greece.
Before You Go
Carry cash. The local currency is the lek. Cards are common in Tirana, but rural areas and small guesthouses often prefer cash.
Drive carefully. Mountain roads are winding, and local driving can be adventurous.
Go in shoulder season. July and August get crowded and hot on the Riviera.
Pack for variety. You’ll go from city streets to mountain passes to beaches in one week.
Learn a few words. “Faleminderit” means thank you, and it goes a long way.
Albania doesn’t feel like anywhere else in Europe, and that’s the point. It’s mysterious, warm-hearted and wonderfully affordable. Go before the rest of the world catches on. 🇦🇱
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