Turquoise in Black Lava: A Guide to The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
A hotel worth visiting Iceland for, even if you weren't planning on it. 60 suites carved into an 800-year-old lava field, a private geothermal lagoon without the crowds, and a Michelin-starred restaurant—all just 20 minutes from Keflavik Airport. The Retreat at Blue Lagoon is Iceland's first five-star hotel and arguably Europe's most unusual spa resort.
Rooms
Six suite categories, from basic to palatial. All feature floor-to-ceiling windows, minimalist Scandinavian design, Blue Lagoon toiletries, and a complimentary minibar (wine, beer, and soft drinks). There are no TVs—only views of the lava and moss outside.
Lava Junior Suite (40 m²)—lower level, 10 m² terrace, lava field views. From ~230,000 ISK (~170,000 ₽).
Moss Junior Suite (40 m²) — upper level, 10 m² balcony, views of mossy rocks. From ~230,000 ISK.
Lagoon View Junior Suite (40 m²) — lower level, views of the turquoise lagoon. From ~280,000 ISK (~210,000 ₽).
Moss Suite (60 m²) — upper floor, 28 m² balcony, living area. From ~315,000 ISK (~235,000 ₽).
Lagoon Suite (60 m²) — 28 m² terrace and a private 30 m² lagoon right next to the room. From ~440,000 ISK (~330,000 roubles).
The Blue Lagoon Suite (230 sq m) is a two-level suite with a private spa: sauna, steam room, and private lagoon. The pinnacle of hotel luxury.
What's included in the price
A lot—and that's part of the price:
Breakfast (rated 10 out of 10 based on reviews)
Afternoon tea with Icelandic pastries—daily at 4:00 PM
In-room minibar
Morning yoga and group walks
Access to the Retreat Spa, private lagoon, and The Ritual
Access to the shared Blue Lagoon
Blue Lagoon Skin Science cosmetics in the room
Wi-Fi and fitness center
Why stay here
Private lagoon. The main reason. The public Blue Lagoon is like the "Disneyland of Iceland": thousands of people, queues, noise. Guests at The Retreat have their own private section of the lagoon with the same healing waters, but without the crowds. You can swim among the lava walls and hardly see a soul.
The Retreat Spa is an underground labyrinth. Eight zones: saunas, steam caves carved into the lava, relaxation rooms with fireplaces, and cold plunge pools. The highlight is The Ritual: a three-step ritual with silica, algae, and minerals, performed right in the cave with open showers.
Moss is a Michelin-starred restaurant. Opened in 2018, it received its star in 2023. Chef Aggi Sverrisson held a Michelin star in London for ten years before returning home. The seasonal tasting menu—seven courses—costs ~40,000 ISK (~30,000 roubles), with a wine pairing for an additional ~30,000–60,000 ISK. The basement features a wine cellar carved into 800-year-old volcanic rock, with Dom Pérignon tastings. Reservations are required—the restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday.
Northern Lights. The hotel is located away from city lights—an ideal spot for viewing from September to March. Staff monitors activity and may wake you during the night if the aurora appears.
Location. 20 minutes from Keflavik Airport—you can check in immediately upon arrival or before your flight. 50 minutes from Reykjavik.
Service. Rated 9.5 out of 10 on Trip.com, 4.7 on Tripadvisor. Upon arrival, you'll receive a glass of Moët champagne, a personal host, and a tour of the grounds. The staff remembers names, and the concierge will arrange everything from transfers to private spa treatments.
Lifehacks for tourists
Book Moss in advance. The restaurant often fills up weeks in advance. If you miss your chance, the Lava Restaurant is also excellent (Icelandic classics, lagoon views), and you can show up in your robe at the Spa Restaurant.
No phones in the spa. At the Retreat Spa, not only photos but also any phones are prohibited. Security is strict. However, the staff can take your photo—just ask.
Protect your hair. Before entering the lagoon, apply conditioner to your hair and do not rinse it out—the silica in the water makes it stiff. Do not submerge prescription glasses in the water, and remove jewelry—the minerals can damage them.
Ask for a ground floor room with a lagoon view. Guests recommend the Lagoon View Junior Suite—the water is literally outside the window, and the terrace gives the feeling of a private lagoon, even without the extra cost of the Lagoon Suite.
Plan your spa day hour by hour. The ideal scenario for guests: check-in → an hour in the private lagoon → The Ritual → another hour in the lagoon → dinner at Moss → a final swim in the lagoon before closing.
Two-night minimum. The hotel operates on a two-night minimum stay. Staying less is pointless: it's impossible to fully experience the spa area in one day.
Taxis are expensive. A transfer from the hotel to Reykjavik costs around £130 (~15,000 roubles) one way. The bus is cheaper (£27), but runs infrequently. Plan to rent a car or pre-book a transfer.
In winter, bring a hat. Even in 38-degree water, your ears get cold in the cold and wind. This is normal in Iceland—no one looks strange wearing a hat in the water.
Keep an eye on the volcanoes. The Reykjanes Peninsula has been active since December 2023, and a series of eruptions is ongoing. The Blue Lagoon has been temporarily closed for evacuation several times. Before booking, check the status on the website—the hotel may be closed or operating with limited hours. However, reopening after a break is usually quick, and the hotel is protected by lava barriers.
Afternoon tea—don't miss it. Every day at 4:00 PM, coffee and Icelandic pastries are served in the lobby—included in the price. A small detail, but a nice touch, especially during a storm outside.
What you need to know before booking
Prices: from ~$1,800 per night (low season) to ~$3,100+ for a basic suite during peak season. Lagoon Suite — from $3,500+, Blue Lagoon Suite — upon request.
Check-in: from 3:00 PM, check-out by 11:00 AM. Strict rules: access to the spa is only available upon check-in, not before. Early arrivals allow you to leave your bags and dine at the Lava Restaurant.
Age: Only guests 18 and older (Retreat Spa — 12 and older).
Season: The hotel is open year-round. Winter (September–March) brings the Northern Lights and darkness; summer brings the midnight sun and longer days. Prices are lower in the low season, but the weather is also harsher.
Volcanoes: The hotel is 1.5 km from the eruption zone. Protective barriers have been built. Check the current status before traveling.
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