Lijiang Day 1: Snowy Peaks and the Human Realm, Half the River Green, Half the River Red
Morning · Suocui Bridge, waiting for a sunrise that didn't show up
On March 21st, I got up before dawn. Lijiang's morning was a bit cold, so I put on a light down jacket before heading out.
My accommodation was very close to Black Dragon Pool Park, a perfect distance for a walk. Suocui Bridge is an excellent spot to watch the sunrise – below the bridge is the water of Black Dragon Pool, and in the distance is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. By the time I arrived, it was a bit late, and I snagged the last spot in the first row. In a short while, three layers of people had gathered behind me.
The weather wasn't great. It was hazy at first, with quite a few clouds on the side where the sun was supposed to rise. After waiting for a while, there was movement in the sky opposite the sunrise – a patch of orange slowly spread out, then covered half the sky in pink. The pink grew more intense, turning into a reddish-orange. Half the sky was reddish-orange, the clouds were orange, and the mountains and trees were green; the other half of the sky remained hazy with hints of dark blue, revealing a few patches of light blue.
All of it was reflected in the waters of Black Dragon Pool. Half the river green, half the river red – that's exactly what it looked like before my eyes.
The tips of the snow-capped mountains were also tinged with a faint pink. Then the clouds grew thicker and thicker, and the sun ultimately didn't appear, completely hidden in the clouds. The crowd slowly dispersed. I didn't see the complete "Golden Mountain bathed in sunlight," but that sky, half reddish-orange and half grayish-blue, and its reflection in the water, already made getting up early worthwhile.
Strolling · Black Dragon Pool Park
After the sky was fully bright, I slowly walked through the park. Small bridges, pavilions, and kiosks – it was completely different from the tension of waiting for the sunrise earlier, a different kind of charm.
The Wufeng Tower is worth seeing. It introduces Lijiang's three World Heritage sites – Lijiang Old Town (World Cultural Heritage), Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas (World Natural Heritage), and Ancient Naxi Dongba Literature Manuscripts (Memory of the World Heritage). It's the only prefecture-level city in China to possess three World Heritage sites simultaneously.
Coming out of Wufeng Tower, the sky cleared up. Blue sky and white clouds, the snow-capped peaks standing majestically, covered in pristine white snow. The sun, which had been hidden earlier, now illuminated everything brightly.
Chance Encounter · Living Culture
Lijiang Museum is also the Dongba Culture Museum.
While I was looking at the Naxi ethnic costume display, several children dressed in ethnic attire suddenly walked in. Their clothes were identical to those in the display – blue cloth jackets, seven-star sheepskin shawls, and colorful waistbands. They laughed and ran, passing by me.
In that instant, the "artifacts" in the display case came alive.
When traces of such culture still exist in the streets, alleys, villages, and markets, people won't get lost in this immersion. Because they haven't lost their roots.
Afternoon · Mu's Residence, Overlooking the Human World
Afterward, I visited Lijiang Old Town and Mu's Residence.
Mu's Residence was the mansion of the Naxi chieftain, with the saying, "The Forbidden City is in the North, Mu's Residence is in the South." Walking along the central axis, past the Council Hall, Wanjuan Tower, and Hufa Hall, one level after another, I finally ascended to Sanqing Hall.
Looking down from the high vantage point, the entire Lijiang Old Town unfolded before my eyes. Gray tiles stretched endlessly, and alleys crisscrossed. The roofs of Mu's Residence were of a different color and style, distinguishing them from the surrounding residential houses, yet organically blending in – just like the chieftain and his people, unified but not separate.
Evening · Sifang Street, Two Kinds of Human Worlds
Sifang Street in the evening was as lively as ever. Naxi grandmothers danced in circles, tourists followed along, and the sounds of music and laughter mingled.
The last time I came to Lijiang alone, I spent the evenings in bars, having a drink, listening to music, and slowly walking back to my guesthouse. The next morning, I went to Lion Mountain to watch the sunrise. That was one attitude – young, free, and solitary.
This time, with my parents, we just casually strolled around Sifang Street, watched the dancing, bought some small items, and then slowly walked back. This was another kind of vibrant human world.
On the way back, I remembered the sky over Black Dragon Pool that morning, half green and half red. From the reflection of the snow-capped mountains in the morning to the bustling human world at night, it felt like I had seen many facets of Lijiang in one day.
And those children in ethnic costumes running into the museum, perhaps they represent Lijiang's most moving aspect – its culture is still alive, in the streets and alleys, in its people, in every morning and every night.
▎Lijiang Day 1 · Practical Memo
【Accommodation】
Name: Ledao Yunnan Resort Inn
Location: Villa area near Black Dragon Pool Park
Pros: Walking distance to Black Dragon Pool Park, convenient for early morning sunrise viewing, quiet environment
【Morning · Watching Sunrise at Black Dragon Pool】
Viewing Spot: Suocui Bridge
Suggested Time: Check sunrise time in advance, arrive at least 30 minutes early to secure a spot
Attire: Cold in March mornings, light down jacket or thick coat essential
Highlights: Golden Mountain bathed in sunlight (when weather is good), water reflections, sky with half the river green, half the river red
Reminder: Sunrise effect depends on weather; even if the sun doesn't appear, the sky colors and water reflections are still beautiful
【Breakfast】
Location: Near Lijiang Museum, just picked a random breakfast shop
Food: Rice noodles, soy milk, etc.
【Black Dragon Pool Park】
Wufeng Tower: Worth seeing, introduces Lijiang's three major World Heritage sites (Lijiang Old Town, Three Parallel Rivers, Dongba Ancient Books)
Others: Small bridges, pavilions, kiosks, suitable for a leisurely stroll
【Lijiang Museum (Dongba Culture Museum)】
Highlights: Dongba hieroglyphs, Naxi ethnic costumes, Dongba scriptures, Dongba religious artifacts
Special Feature: Naxi ethnic costume exhibition area, if you're lucky, you might see locals wearing traditional attire
Free admission
【Mu's Residence】
Address: Inside Lijiang Old Town
Highlights: Naxi chieftain's mansion, along the central axis: Council Hall, Wanjuan Tower, Hufa Hall, ascend Sanqing Hall for a panoramic view of Lijiang Old Town
Admission: Approximately 40 RMB (subject to on-site pricing)
【Dinner】
Name: Ama Re
Location: Inside Lijiang Old Town
Recommendation: Naxi specialty dishes
【Evening · Sifang Street】
Experience: Naxi "Da Tiao" (circle dancing), tourists can join
Atmosphere: Lively, full of local flavor
【My Rating】
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐ (5 points)
The morning at Black Dragon Pool is worth getting up early for; even if seeing the "Golden Mountain bathed in sunlight" depends on luck, the colors of the sky and the water reflections will not disappoint. The museum and Mu's Residence helped me understand Lijiang not just as "scenery" but as "culture." Sifang Street at night, whether alone or with family, has its own charm.