The Premier Temple Outside Beijing: Ancient City of Zhengding

When it comes to ancient cities, you don’t have to think only of Jiangnan. Just a half-hour drive from Shijiazhuang, Zhengding hides the magnificent heritage of “Nine Towers, Four Pagodas, and Eight Great Temples.” Liang Sicheng praised it as a “treasure trove of ancient architectural art.” The 1987 version of "Dream of the Red Chamber" was filmed here, capturing the dreamlike scenes of the novel, and the night market under the evening sky reveals the richest northern street life. This guide takes you on a 48-hour journey to decode the ancient and modern secrets of this “Northern Stronghold.” 🌞 Day 1: Ancient Architecture Tour, Touching a Millennium of Craftsmanship through Inscriptions and Pagodas Morning: Start your time travel from the “Premier Temple Outside Beijing” 1. Longxing Temple (08:30-11:30) As the soul of Zhengding, it holds six “national records,” with every step a dialogue with history. Upon entering, seek out the Mani Hall, whose cruciform architectural layout is a world rarity. Inside the hall’s colorful hanging eaves, Lu Xun’s beloved “Eastern Beauty” Guanyin sits cross-legged backwards, legs crossed, a relaxed and free-spirited posture that overturns traditional perceptions of Buddhist statues. The Great Compassion Pavilion houses a majestic 21.3-meter-tall Song Dynasty bronze Thousand-Hand Guanyin, currently under renovation but still evoking awe-inspiring grandeur. The highlight is the Song Dynasty revolving sutra cabinet, a 4-ton wooden scripture repository that can be turned by hand, showcasing ancient mechanical wisdom at your fingertips. Don’t forget to check in at the “Ancestor of Regular Script” Longzang Temple Stele, a must-see for calligraphy lovers who will linger long. 2. Rongguo Mansion (12:00-13:30) A 10-minute walk from the ancient temple brings you into the dream world of the Red Chamber. This is the core filming location of the 1987 "Dream of the Red Chamber," with the plaque of Rongxi Hall, the banana trees of Yihong Courtyard, and the bamboo shadows of Xiaoxiang Pavilion all original scenes from the drama. Arrive before 9:30 to catch the live “Twelve Beauties of Jinling” water sleeve dance performance. Rent a Hanfu for 50 RMB/hour and shoot a set of ancient-style photos at Zilingzhou, instantly transporting you back to the Grand View Garden. Lunch: Intangible Cultural Heritage Delicacies to Warm Your Stomach and Heart Head straight to Ma Ji Lamb Soup. The freshly cooked lamb shumai has a skin as thin as paper; one bite bursts with lamb soup juice. Pair it with a bowl of milky lamb offal soup, add a spoonful of red chili oil, and refills are free. If you prefer a savory flavor, Hao Family Ribs offers century-old secret recipe ribs with tender meat, paired with sesame-covered clay oven biscuits, full of northern flavor. Afternoon: Four Pagodas Exploration, Unlocking the Architectural Marvels Unique in the World The four pagodas of Zhengding are within a 10-minute walk of each other, linking an architectural epic from the Tang to Ming and Qing dynasties. It’s recommended to buy the 80 RMB combo ticket for better value: - Kaiyuan Temple (14:30-15:10): The Sumeru Pagoda, built 16 years earlier than Xi’an’s Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, embodies Tang Dynasty minimalist aesthetics. The “muscular man” reliefs on the corners of the base are charmingly adorable. Under the glass floor, the strata of seven dynasties overlap, a breathtaking “thousand-year glimpse” when you look down. - Linji Temple (15:20-15:50): The free-to-enter ancestral Zen temple features the Jin Dynasty Chengling Pagoda with green glazed tiles and wind chimes tinkling in the breeze at the eaves. The “Love Tree” and swing on the lawn outside are hidden photo spots full of healing vibes. - Tianning Temple (16:00-16:30): The Lingxiao Pagoda is a national rarity with its “wooden skeleton and brick core” structure. The wooden pillars run through the tower vertically. Climb the pagoda to overlook the panoramic view of the ancient city’s red walls and green tiles. - Guanghui Temple (16:40-17:10): The Hua Pagoda, which Liang Sicheng exclaimed as a “world unique,” is a must-see. The top is fully carved with Bodhisattvas, lions, and elephants, resembling a giant blooming cream bouquet. The cultural and creative shop beside the temple offers free ancient architecture stamps—don’t forget to bring your little notebook. Dinner and Evening: City Wall Night View and Night Market Atmosphere 1. Shunyi Guild Hall (18:00-19:00) Try the intangible cultural heritage dish “Zhengding Benggan” — thinly sliced beef liver stir-fried until crispy and flavorful. Also order the richly sauced lamb with skin; with rice, you can easily eat two big bowls. 2. South City Gate Night View (19:30-20:30) Experience the joy of free access to the city wall! Thirty minutes after sunset during the blue hour, the lights come on. Facing north, you can capture the “three pagodas in one frame”: Hua Pagoda, Chengling Pagoda, and Lingxiao Pagoda. The ancient city skyline is breathtakingly beautiful. During holidays, you can also watch the “Proud Zhengding” 3D light and shadow show, a holographic projection narrating a millennium-long epic. 3. Small Commodities Night Market (20:30-22:00) Time to shop and eat! Wang Family Shumai’s beef filling is freshly wrapped and steamed. Nationwide snacks like Shenyang chicken racks and Changsha stinky tofu are all available. For panoramic shots, head to the “internet-famous parking building” on the 4th floor. After 9 PM, the crowd thins, making the stroll more pleasant. 🌙 Day 2: Cultural Discoveries, Understanding the Ancient City’s Warmth through Everyday Life Morning: Hero’s Hometown and Museum Exploration 1. Zhao Yun Temple (09:00-10:00) As the hometown of “Changshan Zhao Zilong,” it holds the passion of Three Kingdoms fans. Inside, the statue of Zhao Yun holding a spear on horseback is majestic. The weaponry exhibition hall’s replica of the “Qinggang Sword” evokes the heroic spirit of the Battle of Changban. 2. Zhengding County Museum (10:30-12:00) A free treasure trove featuring exhibits like a facsimile of Yan Zhenqing’s “Draft of a Requiem to My Nephew.” The cultural and creative area offers ancient architecture-themed souvenirs worth buying. The exhibition traces Zhengding’s transformation from “Zhendeng” to “Zhengding,” essential to truly understanding the city. Lunch: Authentic Local Flavors to End Your Visit Try Song Family’s Eight Bowls, a set of four meat and four vegetable stews, tender and flavorful. Eat with clay oven biscuits for the taste of old Zhengding home cooking. Pack a Ma Family old chicken to go; the halal marinated chicken is salty, fragrant, and falls off the bone—perfect for the journey. Afternoon: Leisurely Enjoy the Ancient City, Unlock Hidden Experiences - Hanfu Photoshoot: The ancient city has over 40 Hanfu shops. The red walls of South City Gate and Wangquan Ancient Street offer high photo success rates. At 50 RMB/day, it’s great value. Props like oil-paper umbrellas and round fans enhance the atmosphere instantly. - Alley Strolls: Avoid the main streets and dive into the alleys. Old residences on bluestone paths and elders playing chess by the walls are the most vivid daily scenes of the ancient city. Don’t forget to try freshly squeezed snow pear juice, sweet and refreshing. ✨ Practical Tips for a Worry-Free Trip - Transportation: Attractions are concentrated; walking plus free shuttle buses suffice. Driving is more convenient, with free parking citywide! High-speed trains arrive at Zhengding Station or Shijiazhuang Station; a taxi takes half an hour directly to the ancient city. - Tickets: Longxing Temple 50 RMB, Rongguo Mansion 40 RMB, Four Pagodas combo 80 RMB, Zhao Yun Temple 20 RMB. Most attractions close before 5 PM; Longxing Temple stops ticket sales at 4:30 PM—don’t miss the timing. - Accommodation: Recommended are guesthouses inside the ancient city, such as the new Chinese-style courtyard guesthouse beside Longxing Temple with pagoda views from the window; or choose Lavande Hotel with panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows facing the Ming Dynasty city wall. - Convenience: The city offers free drinking water, shared wheelchairs, and public restrooms in government buildings accessible to tourists—extremely friendly! Zhengding is never a place for a “quick visit” but a container of time to be savored slowly. When the Buddhist chants of Longxing Temple, the wind chimes of the four pagodas, and the calls of the night market intertwine, you’ll understand why Xu Xiake lingered here and Liang Sicheng was enamored. This weekend, come to this millennium-old appointment!