Tianshui | Maijishan Grottoes
Tianshui is the most underrated small city in Gansu.
Before I went, I thought Tianshui was just the Maijishan Grottoes. Only after arriving did I realize this "hometown of Emperor Xi" is much more than the grottoes—it’s the birthplace of Fuxi, the hometown of Li Guang, and a key town on the Silk Road. The entire city holds 8,000 years of history.
Tianshui, Gansu
💡 3-hour high-speed train from Lanzhou. 4-hour high-speed train from Xi’an
💡 Best season: April–October (avoid heavy snow and mountain closures from December to February)
💡 Maijishan is a must-see. Visit others if time allows
The first stop is Maijishan Grottoes.
One of China’s four major grottoes, different from Dunhuang Mogao, Datong Yungang, and Luoyang Longmen, Maijishan is unique for its cliffside plank walk—all caves are carved into vertical cliffs 100–200 meters high, accessible only by climbing the suspended plank walk. There are 194 caves, over 7,200 statues, and more than 1,000 square meters of murals. After seeing Mogao, visiting Maijishan feels like discovering the other half of China’s grotto art.
I visited in May when the rapeseed flowers at the foot of the mountain were in full bloom.
The grottoes are arranged in layers on the cliff. The plank walk climbs from bottom to top, making the meaning of "suspended in the air" more vivid. The cliff is nearly vertical, the plank walk just over 1 meter wide, with a sheer drop on one side. Walking on it makes your legs weak, but every cave offers a new shock—the "delicate and clear images" of the Northern Wei, the "wide sleeves and broad belts" of the Western Wei, the "full and rounded" style of the Sui and Tang, and the "secular" style of the Song dynasty. The entire history of Chinese grotto art unfolds here.
⏰ Maijishan ticket: 90 CNY
⏰ Opening hours: 8:00 AM–5:00 PM
💡 The plank walk is steep. Elderly and children should be cautious
💡 Do not use flash photography; it damages murals and statues
💡 In May, you can see rapeseed flowers below. In April, there are peach blossoms
The second stop is Fuxi Temple.
Tianshui is the "hometown of Emperor Xi." Legend says Fuxi was born in Qinzhou District, Tianshui. Fuxi Temple is a memorial temple built in the third year of the Ming Hongzhi era (1490), over 530 years ago. The temple houses statues of Fuxi, murals of his achievements, and the Bagua diagram. The entire temple is an official Ming dynasty structure of grand scale.
⏰ Fuxi Temple ticket: 40 CNY
⏰ Opening hours: 8:00 AM–5:00 PM
💡 Grand sacrificial ceremonies are held annually on the 16th day of the lunar new year (Ancestor’s birthday) and the 13th day of the fifth lunar month (Dragon raising its head)
💡 Fuxi Temple and Tianshui Museum are located together and can be visited in one trip
The third stop is Nanguo Temple.
One of Tianshui’s three ancient temples, built in the Tang dynasty. The temple includes Beiliu Spring and the Du Gongbu Memorial Hall. The "Ancient Cypress of Nanshan" is one of the eight scenic spots of Tianshui from the Qing dynasty. The temple is small but rich in history.
⏰ Nanguo Temple ticket: free
⏰ Opening hours: 8:00 AM–5:00 PM
⏰ Suggested itinerary:
Two-day trip: Day 1 morning at Maijishan, afternoon in the city (Fuxi Temple + Nanguo Temple), stay in Tianshui; Day 2 Xianren Cliff + return trip.
Three-day trip: add Jieting ancient town, Gangu Daxiang Mountain, Wushan Water Curtain Cave.
🍜 Must-try foods in Tianshui:
· Tianshui guagua (the city’s most famous snack, made from buckwheat)
· Tianshui laolao (buckwheat noodles)
· Tianshui mianpi (a local variation of Shaanxi cold noodles)
· Tianshui jiangshui noodles (sour noodles made with fermented water)
· Qin’an peaches (local fruit)
· Gangu chili peppers (Gansu’s most famous chili)
· Wushan green beans (local vegetables)
· Longxi cured meat (Gansu cured meat)
⏰ Recommended restaurants:
· "Master Zhang’s Guagua" in downtown Tianshui: the most famous guagua shop locally
· "Qin’an Snack Street" in Qin’an County: try various Qin’an snacks
· Farmhouse restaurant at the foot of Maijishan in Maiji District: local farmhouse dishes
⏰ Tianshui transportation:
✈️ Plane: Tianshui Airport (limited flights)
🚄 High-speed train: Tianshui South Station (1.5 hours from Lanzhou, 2 hours from Xi’an)
🚗 Self-drive: 4 hours from Lanzhou, 4.5 hours from Xi’an
🚌 Shuttle bus: 4 hours from Lanzhou South Bus Station to Tianshui
⏰ Maijishan Grottoes details:
· Founded in the Later Qin period (384–417 AD), over 1,600 years ago
· 194 caves remain, with over 7,200 statues
· Art from Northern Wei, Western Wei, Northern Zhou, Sui, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties
· Cave 44’s "Western Wei smile" is the most famous statue
· Cave 133’s "Shakyamuni and disciples" is the most moving statue
· Among the 194 caves, about a dozen special caves including 44, 78, 121, 133, and 135 are must-sees
⏰ Xianren Cliff:
· 15 km from Maijishan
· Legendary place where immortals practiced
· Includes temples, shrines, and pavilions representing Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism
· Features legends like "Immortal sending a child" and "Dripping water Guanyin"
⏰ Jieting ancient town:
· Mentioned in Zhuge Liang’s "Memorial on the Expedition"
· Preserved ancient battlefield site in Qin’an County
· Qin’an is known as "China’s apple hometown"
⏰ Gangu Daxiang Mountain:
· Maijishan grottoes in Gangu County, Tianshui
· 23-meter-tall Buddha statue, one of China’s largest indoor Buddhas
· Founded in the Northern Wei dynasty
⏰ Wushan Water Curtain Cave:
· 1.5 hours from downtown Tianshui
· Lashao Temple cliff carvings, the world’s largest cliff relief
· Lashao Temple Buddha statue is 40 meters tall
⏰ Tianshui accommodation:
· Qinzhou District (downtown): many chain hotels, 200–400 CNY
· Maiji District: near Maijishan, 300–500 CNY
· Maijishan farmhouse stays: 100–200 CNY in peak season
· Maijishan hot spring hotels: 500–1,000 CNY in peak season
⏰ Maijishan vs Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes:
· Mogao: murals focused, statues secondary, UNESCO World Heritage
· Maijishan: statues focused, murals secondary, one of China’s four major grottoes
· Mogao is in the desert, Maijishan on cliffs
· Mogao has more visitors, Maijishan has about half as many
· Mogao requires reservation, Maijishan tickets can be bought on site
⏰ Best photo spots at Maijishan:
1. Shoot the whole mountain from below, with the plank walk faintly visible on the cliff
2. Shoot the cave array on the opposite cliff from the plank walk
3. Shoot statues inside special caves (no close-ups)
4. During rapeseed flower season, shoot Maijishan with the rapeseed sea
⏰ Tianshui specialty souvenirs:
· Tianshui Sichuan peppercorn
· Qin’an peaches
· Gangu chili peppers
· Wushan green beans
· Longxi cured meat
· Tianshui carved lacquer
· Silk carpets
· Tianshui silk carpets
⏰ Tianshui history:
Tianshui’s name comes from the legend of "Heavenly River pouring water." Established in the third year of Emperor Wu of Han’s Yuanding era (114 BC), it is 2,139 years old. Tianshui is the "hometown of Emperor Xi," a key Silk Road town, and "the Jiangnan of Longxi," a rare mountain and water small city in Gansu.
⏰ Tianshui vs Lanzhou vs Zhangye:
· Tianshui: mountain and water small city, hometown of Emperor Xi, Maijishan Grottoes
· Lanzhou: Yellow River city, beef noodles, Zhongshan Bridge
· Zhangye: colorful Danxia landform, Great Buddha Temple, Matisi Temple
Each place has its own charm. For Gansu travel, visiting at least two is recommended.
⚠️ Pitfalls to avoid:
1. Maijishan plank walk is steep; those afraid of heights should be cautious
2. Maijishan is open from May to October; may be closed other months
3. Special caves at Maijishan require separate tickets (10–15 special caves)
4. Few flights at Tianshui Airport; high-speed train recommended
5. Tianshui snacks are sour; outsiders may not be used to the taste
6. No photography inside Maijishan grottoes (special caves allowed)
7. Peak season (May, October) sees many visitors at Maijishan; avoid weekends
8. Tianshui is about 1,100 meters above sea level; no altitude sickness expected
I visited Tianshui in May when rapeseed flowers were in full bloom at the foot of Maijishan. Looking up from the foot, the whole mountain seemed covered in green and gold, with the plank walk shining in the sunlight—I suddenly understood what "China’s grotto art museum" means.
The plank walk at Maijishan was the most heart-pounding part—the vertical cliff, the suspended plank walk, the valley dozens of meters below—every step was tense. But every cave brought new amazement—the "delicate and clear images" of Northern Wei’s slender style, the "full and rounded" richness of Sui and Tang, the "secular" warmth of the Song—the entire history of Chinese grotto art unfolded before my eyes.
Many sights are for spectacle; Maijishan is for time—over 1,600 years, 194 caves, more than 7,200 statues—every cut, every chisel, every brushstroke is a mark of time.