Linxia is nice, but I wouldn't recommend going there in October or November because it's tough.
Linxia October-November Off-the-Beaten-Path Slow Travel Guide: Escape the Popular Streets and Discover the Autumn Charm of Hezhou, Where the Loess Plateau Meets the Plateau
October and November offer a particularly comfortable off-peak travel window in Linxia: the summer heat fades, rainfall decreases, the forests along Taizi Mountain are bathed in golden orange and ochre hues, the river valleys and fields are tinged with warm yellow, the air is dry and clear, and the number of tourists has noticeably decreased, avoiding the summer hustle and bustle. You can still enjoy the majestic mountain scenery of Northwest China and immerse yourself in the diverse folk customs and local cuisine of Hezhou. While most guides only promote the haphazard sightseeing of the Eight Squares and Thirteen Lanes and Bingling Temple, this 3-day, 2-night itinerary deliberately avoids crowded spots, focusing on in-depth strolls through the old town, a light drive along Taizi Mountain, pristine villages and towns, and hidden cultural sites. It avoids long night drives and excessive commercialization, unlocking a tranquil side of Linxia that is less known to the public. (Approximately 1490 words) Pre-trip Tips: Linxia is a long and narrow region. Most points in the city center are accessible by taxi. For points along the Taizi Mountain route and within the county, self-driving or hiring a licensed vehicle offers the greatest flexibility. In October and November, the mountain areas are chilly in the mornings and evenings, and there may be occasional light fog on mountain roads. Some curves are close to cliffs, so drive slowly. There is a large temperature difference between day and night, with daytime temperatures ranging from 10-20℃ to as low as 2-5℃ at night. Layering is recommended: a long-sleeved base layer + a knitted sweater + a windproof jacket. Non-slip hiking shoes are essential. The ultraviolet radiation is still strong at the edge of the plateau, so bring sunscreen and lip balm.
For accommodation, don't stick to expensive guesthouses around Bafang. The old town of Linxia and the Zheqiao area offer better value, convenient dining, and a quieter, more comfortable environment. Local cuisine is mainly halal, with hearty portions of beef, mutton, and noodles. When entering religious sites, dress appropriately, avoiding exposed shoulders and knees, and respect local customs. Supply is limited in less-visited villages and valleys, so prepare drinking water, dry food, and an offline map in advance. Carry your ID card with you at all times. When viewing scenery in the mountains, stay away from cliff edges without guardrails; safety is paramount.
Day 1: A Reverse Stroll Through Hezhou Old Town | Skipping the Main Streets of the Eight Squares, Discovering Brick Carvings and the Depths of Everyday Life
On the first day, instead of heading straight to the popular entrance of the Eight Squares and Thirteen Lanes, let's first understand the true character of Linxia. In the morning, avoid the crowds and slowly explore the alleys behind the East Mansion. Many people only photograph the brick carvings on the main building, neglecting the courtyard corridors, wall paintings, and intricate carvings. This is a treasure trove of Hezhou brick carving art; with fewer tourists, you can quietly appreciate it. Next, head to the People's Red Garden. It's not like a popular tourist spot, but more like a garden where locals relax. Pavilions, flowing water, and exquisite brick carvings are hidden among the trees. In October and November, fallen leaves carpet the paths, and elderly people sit and chat, creating a warm and lively atmosphere.
For lunch, avoid the restaurants in the tourist areas. Navigate to the old shops around Beida Street and try Hezhou steamed buns and steamed rice noodles. The taste is authentic, and these are restaurants frequented by locals.
In the afternoon, explore the Eight Squares and Thirteen Lanes again, avoiding the main commercial street and instead turning into the deeper side streets like Tiejia Lane and Wangsi Lane. Pay less attention to the trendy photo spots and more to the traditional house facades, brick carvings on walls, and wooden doors of old courtyards; these areas are still inhabited by locals. Along the way, visit the Hezhou Intangible Cultural Heritage Workshops, quietly appreciating the brick carvings, sculptures, and embroidery. Purchase only what you need; no need to force yourself to try anything. Afterwards, head to the Linxia Prefecture Museum, which houses painted pottery from the Majiayao and Qijia cultures, providing a systematic understanding of the ancient civilization of the upper Yellow River. It's quiet and less crowded, perfect for a leisurely visit.
In the evening, avoid the trendy night markets and explore the rural areas surrounding Zheqiao Bay. Avoid the most famous tourist spots and choose small shops frequented by locals. In the evening, you can enjoy a distant view of the sunset along the Daxia River. Stay overnight in the city and get some rest.
Day 2: A Leisurely Stroll Along the Taizishan Tourist Highway | Gorges and Colorful Forests, Hidden Mountain Gems
Many tourists treat the Taizishan Highway as just a road they pass through, unaware that October and November are the peak months for autumn scenery. Depart in the morning onto the Taizishan Tourist Highway, taking a relaxed pace with stops along the way, rather than rushing.
First, navigate to Diaoshui Gorge, nestled in the mountains of Jishishan County. The gorge is deep and secluded, with clear mountain springs, small waterfalls cascading down the cliffs, and layers of trees displaying vibrant colors. There are no large-scale amusement facilities, and almost no tour groups. Simply stroll along the well-maintained, gentle trails; there's no need to venture into undeveloped areas.
For lunch, choose a nearby traditional halal restaurant in the town and enjoy a plate of hand-pulled mutton and a bowl of riverside noodles—the rich, warming broth is delightful.
Continue leisurely along the path, passing the outer edge of Huangcaoping (Yellow Grassland). Entering the paid campsite is not mandatory. The autumn meadows turn golden, the outline of Taizi Mountain is clearly visible in the distance, cattle and sheep graze freely, and the view is expansive. Along the way, visit the Shihai Glacier Relics, a vast expanse of ancient glacial debris, a geological landscape rarely noticed by tourists, possessing a rugged, ancient feel.
If time permits, you can detour to the outer road of Kangle Birch Forest. Avoid the amusement park areas and simply stroll along the gentle forest trails, where golden birch leaves fall in the wind, creating a truly atmospheric experience. Return to Linxia city in the evening; no night driving or mountain trails are planned.
Day 3: Cultural Heritage + Relaxed Ending on the Yellow River Bank | Pristine Villages, a Stress-Free Farewell
The last day focuses on relaxation and leisure, offering two routes to choose from, avoiding high-intensity long-distance travel.
For those who prefer cultural and historical sites: Navigate to the Qijia Culture Museum in Guanghe County. This less-visited museum houses a large collection of jade and pottery artifacts from the Qijia culture. With few tourists, it offers a quiet opportunity to learn about the stories of the early inhabitants of the upper Yellow River. Afterwards, head to Benchigou in Dongxiang County. From a safe vantage point, overlook the high gorges and placid lake, and the red Danxia landforms, with a distant view of the Liujiaxia Bridge – majestic and magnificent, much quieter than popular viewing platforms. No need to take a boat to the crowded Bingling Temple pier; simply admire the clear waters of the Yellow River from afar.
For those who prefer rural charm: Visit Lianhua Lake (Lianhua Pier). Stroll along the lakeside path. The lake is wide and clear, the poplar trees along the shore are turning yellow, and you can see local fishing boats moored. It's not overly commercialized, perfect for a leisurely walk. Nearby farmhouses offer home-style dishes with Yellow River fish, simple and fresh in flavor.
For lunch, choose a traditional restaurant in the city center and order a bowl of fermented noodle soup, liangpi (cold skin noodles), and sweet fermented rice – a refreshing and tangy dish that balances the richness of meat dishes.
Don't buy souvenir boxes from tourist attractions; instead, head to the city's farmers' markets for vacuum-packed beef and lamb, grains, honey, and halal snacks—it's much more cost-effective. Then, leisurely pack your bags and head back in the afternoon.
Local Hidden Gems
· Dongxiang Hand-Pulled Lamb: Stewed in clear water, the meat is tender and not gamey. Served with salt and pepper, it's a signature dish of Hezhou. The best quality comes from the old shops in the town.
· Heyan Noodles: Hand-pulled noodles in a rich beef and lamb broth. A hearty and comforting staple for Northwest China.
· Hezhou Steamed Buns: Filled with lamb and carrots, thin-skinned and juicy. Best enjoyed freshly steamed for maximum aroma.
· Fa Zi Noodles with Sausage: A combination of lamb offal and sausage, a local specialty. Worth trying in small quantities.
· Jiang Shui Noodles: Sour and refreshing, perfect for cutting through grease and whetting the appetite. Especially comforting in the cool autumn weather.
· Sweet Fermented Rice: Fermented oats, sweet and slightly sour. Even better chilled. Authentic street food.
· Fried Dough Sticks and Cakes: Fried pastries, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. A local favorite.
Tips to Avoid Off-the-Beaten-Path Foods
· Mountain weather is unpredictable in October and November, with fog often occurring in the early morning and some roads becoming slippery. Adjust your itinerary immediately if the weather is bad, and do not attempt to enter the mountains. Gas stations are scarce in the mountains, so fill up your tank before setting off.
· Respect local customs: Do not bring non-halal food into halal restaurants; dress appropriately, avoid loud noises, and do not photograph locals without permission at religious sites; follow instructions when entering temples.
· When viewing scenery in the mountains or by lakes, always stay in safe areas, do not approach cliff edges, and do not venture into dangerous riverbeds; many off-the-beaten-path attractions lack security, so safety is paramount.
· Northwest cuisine portions are large; 2-3 dishes are sufficient for 2-3 people to avoid waste; lamb is considered warming and nourishing, so pair it with sweet fermented rice or fermented noodle soup to balance the flavor.
· Don't be fixated on checking off all the famous spots; Linxia's most beautiful scenery is hidden along the roads of Taizi Mountain, in the lively alleyways of the old town, and in the vast autumn breeze along the Yellow River. Allowing ample time for leisurely strolls and daydreaming is the true essence of slow travel.
Many people's impression of Linxia is limited to its eight lanes and thirteen alleys and its culinary specialties, overlooking the unique vast autumn scenery and profound cultural heritage of this transitional zone between the Loess Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Visit in October or November, lessen your obsession with checking off landmarks, and more time for leisurely exploration. Amidst the golden mountains and fields, the ancient brick-carved alleys, and the steaming hot meals, discover the serene yet vibrant character of Hezhou.