Stayed at the cliffside guesthouse on the Loess Plateau—so healing
🌊 Yan’an is more than just red history; it also has the Yellow River!
Honestly, if I hadn’t come here myself, I wouldn’t have known that so many breathtaking natural sights are hidden around Yan’an. Hukou Waterfall, Ganquan Grand Canyon, Nanniwan… each one is worth a special trip.
This time I planned three days and two nights to explore all the natural spots around Yan’an. Here’s a straightforward guide👇
📍 Day 1|Hukou Waterfall — joyfully soaked by the Yellow River mist
⛰️ The guesthouse is on the south side of Hukou Waterfall Scenic Area, in the ancient ferry town built on the old site of Gezhen Tan ancient market town. The terraced cave dwellings are staggered in height facing the Yellow River. From the room window, you can see the vast panorama of the Qin-Jin Grand Canyon.
⛰️ The cave dwellings keep the original stone texture of the village but are equipped like boutique guesthouses. The arched window frames a section of the Yellow River, and every day you wake up to the low roar of the river.
⛰️ In the evening, sitting on the cliffside terrace with the Yellow River surging just tens of meters below, the sunset turns the water golden red 🌅. Paired with a pot of Shaanbei red jujube tea, this scene is something I could rave about for a year.
In 2026, Hukou Waterfall will have a major policy change: starting June 1, the "One Ticket for Qin and Jin" will be implemented 🎫. Tickets cost 80 yuan per person and are valid for two days, allowing unlimited travel between the Shaanxi and Shanxi sides! Previously, you could only choose one side’s view. Now, for one price, you unlock two completely different waterfall experiences on both banks. It’s amazing.
The shuttle bus round trip costs 16 yuan. The scenic area operates from 7:00 AM to 6:30 PM.
💡 My insider tips:
Enter from the Shaanxi side first. The view here is wide open, offering a full frontal view of the waterfall. The mist hitting your face is intense. Summer is the high-water season; the Yellow River’s volume is large, and the waterfall can stretch dozens of meters wide. The roar of the golden water curtain crashing down is nothing like what your phone can capture.
⚠️ Waterproof bags are a must! Within 10 meters of the waterfall, the mist is as heavy as a downpour. Phones without protection will definitely be ruined. Wear dark, non-slip shoes; the steps by the shore are muddy, and light-colored shoes will quickly turn into mud shoes.
In the afternoon, cross the bridge to the Shanxi side. There’s a dragon cave where you can go down to the bottom of the waterfall and look up. The overwhelming feeling of water pouring down from below is on a whole different level than from above.
📍 Day 2|Nanniwan — the "beautiful Jiangnan of Shaanbei" from textbooks
On the way back from Hukou to the city, I stopped by Nanniwan, about an hour’s drive. Honestly, I was a bit reluctant before coming, thinking the name "Nanniwan" sounded too textbook-like. What could there be to see?
But once I arrived: it was amazing.
In July, the rice fields in Nanniwan are lush green. In the distance, you see the typical loess hills and ravines, but underfoot are paddy fields and lotus ponds. This surreal contrast of "Jiangnan water town growing on the Loess Plateau" is magical 🌾. The Great Production Memorial Hall is free to visit. The exhibits are well done, showing old photos and tools from the land reclamation days.
💡 Tips: There are several cave dwelling farmhouses in Nanniwan town. Have lunch there and try Shaanbei iron pot stewed lamb and millet bread—authentic and delicious.
📍 Day 3|Ganquan Yucha Grand Canyon — Shaanbei’s "Antelope Canyon"
This was the biggest surprise of my trip!! No contest!!
From Yan’an city, it’s about a 1.5-hour drive on the highway to Ganquan County, then a country road into the canyon. The entire canyon was formed billions of years ago by earthquakes and water erosion, creating sandstone cracks. At the narrowest point, two people can’t walk side by side. The sky is a thin line above, and the rock walls have ripple-like layers like water waves. Sunlight streams through the cracks, and the walls show gradients of orange-red, ocher, and golden brown…
I literally screamed on the spot 😱
💡 Tips:
📌 No signal in the canyon! Download offline maps in advance.
📌 Waterproof shoes are a must; the canyon floor has water year-round, ankle-deep in places.
📌 Best photo time is from 11 AM to 2 PM when sunlight shines directly into the cracks.
📌 The canyon is one-way. Walking the full route takes about 2 hours. Even those with average fitness can handle it.
📌 July is rainy season. Check the weather forecast before you go. The canyon closes temporarily during heavy rain.
🗓️ Suggested 3-day itinerary
D1: Take the high-speed train to Yan’an → transfer directly to Hukou → visit both banks in the afternoon → stay at the ancient ferry cliffside guesthouse
D2: Depart Hukou → lunch and visit Nanniwan → return to the city for rest in the afternoon → evening stroll at Jinyan 1938 district
D3: Early departure to Ganquan Grand Canyon → return in the afternoon
🚗 Travel tips
In July 2026, Yan’an launched a self-drive service at high-speed rail stations! There are rental points at Huangling, Luochuan, Fuxian, Ganquan, and Yan’an stations, with one-way drop-off allowed. For places like Hukou and Ganquan, where public transport is inconvenient, self-driving is the best option. It takes about 1.5 hours on the highway from Yan’an to Hukou, and the road conditions are good.
If you don’t want to drive, there are tourist buses from Yan’an city to Hukou twice a day. Just buy tickets in advance at the bus station.
📌 Practical info summary
📌 Hukou Waterfall ticket 80 yuan (one ticket for both provinces), shuttle bus 16 yuan, valid for two days
📌 Ganquan Grand Canyon ticket + shuttle about 100 yuan, exact price on site
📌 All Nanniwan venues are free to enter
📌 In July, Shaanbei has long daylight hours; it gets dark after 8 PM, so there’s plenty of time
📌 The Loess Plateau is extremely dry. Use face masks, lip balm, and body lotion daily, or your skin will peel
📌 Shaanbei food is salty and oily. If you have a sensitive stomach, bring some medicine
Honestly, the biggest takeaway from this trip is that Yan’an has been boxed in by the "red tourism" label for too long. Many people don’t realize how stunning its natural landscapes are. Standing in front of Hukou Waterfall, wrapped in Yellow River mist, or looking up at sunlight pouring through the cracks in Ganquan Canyon, you’ll feel this trip was worth it.