Tibet Travelogue (2) —— Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon in Nyingchi
After breakfast, we drove the rented Tank 300 from Lhasa to Sosong Village in Milin County, Nyingchi City, about 480 kilometers away. Soon we got on the Lalin Expressway without passing through a toll station, which was quite unexpected. Later, we learned that expressways in Tibet are free of charge. The first stop was the Ganden Monastery service area, where the surrounding mountains were covered with snow and white clouds floated in the blue sky. Many vehicles were queuing up for fuel in the service area. Our car needed fuel too, but not wanting to queue for a long time, we decided to refuel at the next service area. With snow-capped mountains ahead and continuous snow mountains on both sides, we couldn't contain our excitement and kept taking photos and videos to record the beautiful scenery along the way. However, when we passed through the Riduo, Bangjietang, and Gacai service areas without finding fuel services, we started to worry. A search on the phone revealed that the next refueling spot was the Gongbujangda service area, 115 kilometers ahead, meaning there were no gas stations within 227 kilometers from the Ganden Monastery service area to the Gongbujangda service area. Looking at the fuel gauge, the car could still travel 26 kilometers. Fortunately, we found a gas station in Jinda Town, Gongbujangda County, 28 kilometers away, so we turned onto Highway 318 and prepared ourselves mentally to push the car for 2 kilometers if necessary. We drove at a steady speed and finally reached the Jinda gas station without having to push the car. From this, we learned a lesson to always keep the fuel tank full.
With the tank filled, the Tank 300 became cheerful again. The Lalin Expressway connected to the Milin Airport Expressway and descended along the Niyang River, soon reaching the confluence of the Niyang River and the Yarlung Tsangpo River. The vast sandy beach was crisscrossed with river bends, presumably due to the low water level at the turn of spring and summer, which must present a completely different scene after the rainy season. This area belongs to Pai Town in Milin County, Nyingchi City, at an altitude of about 3,000 meters, about 600 meters lower than Lhasa, with a noticeably different climate. The mountains on both sides of the Yarlung Tsangpo River were lush and green, with attractive landscapes tempting us to stop and admire, but time did not permit. After driving about 60 kilometers, we reached the bridge next to Pai Town, where a checkpoint stopped us — it was the entrance to the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon scenic area. The Sosong Village we were heading to was just 7 kilometers ahead. To enter the village, each person had to buy a ticket for 150 yuan, with a half-price discount for those over 60.
In Sosong Village, we stayed at the Watch 7782 Inn, where we were received by a girl from Shanghai, apparently one of the owners. The number 7782 represents the altitude of Mount Namjagbarwa, showing the owners' affection for the peak or their insight into business opportunities. Before it got dark, we walked to the river to enjoy the view. Walking downstream, outside the village along the river was a large green field with net fences. About 1 kilometer ahead, there was an observation deck where we saw the Yarlung Tsangpo River winding through the canyon. The river breeze was strong, and the prayer flags tied to the railings fluttered loudly, along with a sign that read '318 Route, must drive in this life' trembling in the wind. At that moment, there were few tourists, but three barbecue stall owners were still waiting under the simple shacks. In the green field by the river, prayer flags fluttered on a prominent hilltop, where people intermittently went to listen to the wind, watch the water, and take photos with the snow-capped mountains. The revered Mount Namjagbarwa, however, was shrouded in thick clouds and did not show itself. As it got darker, a light rain began to fall.
The innkeeper started a Tibetan-style stove in the hall, and the thick logs burned inside. Sitting by the stove, the chill on our bodies gradually dissipated, and chatting with the owner and his friends added a touch of comfort. After a hearty meal, we slept until dawn. From the rooftop of the inn, we saw clouds forming in the canyon, drifting between the mountains, with nearby snow peaks appearing and disappearing above the clouds, while Mount Namjagbarwa remained hidden in the mist. We stood by the river, gazing in the direction of Mount Namjagbarwa for a long time, hoping for the wind to clear the clouds and reveal the snow peak. An hour passed, and the peak was still locked in thick clouds. However, if it were easy to catch a glimpse of, it wouldn't be Mount Namjagbarwa.
After breakfast, we drove downstream, traveling on the mountainside with steep peaks on one side and a deep canyon on the other. The narrow road made us hesitant to stop, fearing oncoming traffic. After driving 8 kilometers, we veered away from the Yarlung Tsangpo River canyon and reached a wide valley. The fields harvested last year were waiting to be plowed again, yaks dotted the base of the mountains searching for food, the forest was lush halfway up the mountain, and the mountaintops were crowned with white snow. The air was moist and fresh, and there was a village called Dalin Village. If one had no concerns for fame, fortune, or official duties, wouldn't this be an idyllic retreat for a peaceful life? Our car turned right at the head of the village and returned to the edge of the canyon. We drove down through a forest that blocked the sun and gradually approached the river, where we stopped where several cars were parked. According to the map, crossing the river would take us to Zhibai Village, but the reinforced concrete Dalin Bridge over the river had collapsed some time ago, which was frustrating. Whether it was a shoddy construction project or a once-in-a-millennium flood was unknown.
At noon, the weather gradually cleared up, and we eagerly awaited the emergence of Mount Namjagbarwa from the clouds. Although it did not happen as we hoped, we were still very satisfied as we bid farewell to Sosong Village. On the way, we saw the Buddha Palm Sand Dune in Danang Township, Milin County, across the river. On the return trip, following the right bank of the Yarlung Tsangpo River upstream, we got close to the sand dune. The dune was several tens of meters high and covered several hectares. After buying a ticket, one could slide down the sand for fun. We were not interested in this, but marveled at this masterpiece of wind and sand, the wonders of nature are truly unimaginable.
When we passed through Qiangna Township in Milin County, we stumbled upon a monastery and learned that it was Qiangna Monastery, founded in the 15th century. It had been destroyed twice by earthquakes and was relocated to its current location in 1956. The incense at Qiangna Monastery was not very strong, the central prayer flag pole was still bare, and the main hall door was locked. A young couple entered the monastery and found a monk to open the door. They worshipped devoutly in the main hall, sincere and reverent, and even brought back holy water from the monastery for their elderly family members. The religious faith of Tibetans is rooted from childhood, deeply ingrained by youth, and unwavering in old age. Thanks to the young couple, we were able to enter the hall for a look. The main Buddha in the hall was a child image of Jampa Buddha, and in the corner, there was an embroidered silk banner with Chairman Mao Zedong's handwritten inscription, which read 'All ethnic groups of the People's Republic of China unite'. Tibetan Buddhism does not have a vegetarian precept, so it is common for monasteries to keep chickens, but what was unusual was that the chickens in Qiangna Monastery rested in trees.
Leaving Qiangna Monastery, after passing the confluence of the Niyang River and the Yarlung Tsangpo River, we drove through a culvert to the river beach and touched the cold water of the Yarlung Tsangpo River with our own hands. The sky became overcast, and we navigated to the Grand Canyon Hotel in Bayi Town, Baxoi District, Nyingchi, via Gangpai Road, Milin Airport Expressway, and Lalin Expressway, covering a distance of about 50 kilometers. We passed through the Yak Square on the Welcome Avenue in Nyingchi City. It was a square on a central roundabout with a group of huge yak stone sculptures, which were quickly out of sight.
The scenery is very spectacular, you can stay for coffee, the price is reasonable and not expensive, you can see the Rizhao Jinshan of Nanga Bawa Peak in this attraction, and there is a scenic spot called the World of Wonderland in it. It is so beautiful!
I want to share the Grand Canyon's self-driving north line, drive to the Grand Canyon sightseeing place, there are several streets here for eating, lodging and taking a sightseeing bus, always drive in, when you see the first photo, the relevant card next to it is bar, you have to get off and show 150 people tickets, sign a written guarantee, Then tell the order of the hotel that the car can be valid for three days. Before I went, I also made a Raiders and accidentally booked Dele B&B. When I opened the door, I felt that I had dug a treasure. The two pictures in the back were all original pictures of the mobile phone. The floor-to-ceiling windows looked out and the Nanga Bawa Peak was opposite. I didn't feel that shocking beauty! Just looking for a cup of tea while sitting by the window!
It is very convenient to use the on-site ticket inspection and paper ticket exchange. If you live in Suosong Village on the North Line, you don't need to buy a 90 yuan ticket, as long as 150 yuan tickets, and you can get free tickets in non-peak season. The peach blossom season is worth going.
Stayed at Sanwang Garden Inn in Suosong Village. This homestay is facing Nanga Bawa Peak. The location is comfortable. The boss is very enthusiastic and the dishes taste good. Self-driving accommodation needs to buy North Shore tickets and book a room to let the car enter. It is really uncomfortable to drive to the South Shore Scenic Area.
The Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon scenic spot is very large. This time I visited the South Bank line. There are four stops in total for sightseeing cars. The first and second stops are meaningless. The third stop is the Nanga Bawa Observation Deck. Unfortunately, the fog has not seen the true face of Nanga Bawa Peak. The fourth stop is the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon hydrophilic platform. Worth a visit.
值得一去,景色非常美,景区服务很好,天气好的时候看南迦巴瓦峰很壮观,雅江大峡谷之行留下非常美好的印象,期待换个季节再来,体验不一样的壮观美景