Su Shi's line, "Whether lightly or heavily adorned, she is always beautiful," served as the poetic highlight of the entire banquet. The table opposite Wang Yong at the West Lake Four Seasons Golden Sands Hall and Liang Di at Beijing 1996 Sichuan Cuisine was a feast for the eyes.
Su Shi's line, "Whether lightly or heavily adorned, she is always beautiful," served as the poetic highlight of the entire banquet. The dinner between Wang Yong of the West Lake Four Seasons Golden Sands Hall and Liang Di of Beijing 1996 Sichuan Cuisine was a meeting of contrasting styles, a distant appreciation between two tables. Chef Wang Yong graciously reserved ample space for the flavors, entrusting Liang Di, the female head chef of 1996, to express the beauty of Sichuan cuisine.
The meal began with a sweet and fresh base, featuring langoustines and sea urchins paired with soft-shell crab. The abalone with black bean sauce and smoked bamboo shoots showcased a clever emulsification of the sauce; the abalone liver and black bean sauce were thoroughly blended, producing a rich, creamy aroma reminiscent of milk or fermented butter without a drop of milk in the mouth. The abalone was thick and meaty, while the smoky flavor of the bamboo shoots settled at the bottom, creating layers of freshness, aroma, and richness. The "Layered Fragrant Cold-Brewed Sugared Walnuts" features local beef short ribs coated in candied seasonal walnuts, while the crispy chili peppers exude a vibrant aroma, showcasing a restrained yet sophisticated Sichuan-style spiciness.
The "Lily Bulb Chicken and Tofu Soup" features tofu pudding that resembles wispy clouds, floating in a clear broth, with lily bulbs adding a touch of elegance. The broth, clarified three times, is clear yet never thin.
The hot dishes represent two regional specialties. The "Steamed Plum Fish Fillet with Melon Dew" at Jinsha Hall revives a nearly lost Hangzhou dish. One hundred pounds of loofah are fermented with salt and white wine, yielding only a small amount of precious melon dew. This dew is used instead of water to steam the plum fish, allowing the freshness of the loofah to permeate the tender fish fillets (deboned by hand), creating a gentle, rice-like aroma. The ingenuity of Jiangnan cuisine is evident here. Another delightful surprise is the "Ginger-Flavored Potstickers with Qianjiang Eel." The Qiantang River eel boasts tender, succulent flesh, while the bottom is pan-fried until crispy and fragrant, creating a striking contrast between the soft fish and the crispy skin. The aroma of ginger enhances the river delicacy, allowing you to savor the spirit of the Qiantang River in every bite.
The camphor tea-smoked duck, originating in 1996, cleverly blends the styles of Peking duck and Sichuan-style camphor tea duck. The eating method is threefold: the first bite focuses on the skin, rich and crispy; the second bite releases the smoky aroma through the skin and meat; the third bite is paired with crispy walnut duck pastry, then dipped in Dekopon citrus sauce. Borrowing inspiration from French condiments, the citrus acidity balances the duck's richness, while the smoky aroma, fruity flavor, and nutty crunch of the camphor tea intertwine, creating a layered and satisfying experience. This is a perfect match with the ROSÉ from Bollinger, chosen by the Jinsha sommelier.
The Sichuan peppercorn mixed offal stew with fresh Wagyu beef is served in a semi-soup format, with a mild spiciness that perfectly cuts through the richness. The main course, Dongpo Pork Whole Bone Reunion Dinner, featured pork belly braised until tender and falling off the bone, with a rich and flavorful sauce. Served with rice cooked in a traditional iron wok, the aroma of oil permeating every grain, it offered a satisfying and hearty meal.
The desserts also reflected the bountiful harvest of autumn. The Golden Corn Double Flavor, a warm and refreshing treat, featured corn from Northeast China. The contrast between the warm aroma of the corn crisp and the icy coolness of the corn ice cream created a delightful contrast. For me, that aroma was equivalent to the entirety of autumn. A truly delightful feast.
Masters on the same stage always complement each other perfectly.