Hidden in Guangxi is a "bridge museum" where every stone tells a story.
Guangxi harbors a "museum of bridges," each embodying a thousand years of wisdom.
While bamboo rafts in Guilin still line up on the Li River, the Huilan Wind and Rain Bridge in Fuchuan is already bathed in the morning mist. Along the Xiaohe Ancient Road that winds through the city, ten Ming and Qing dynasty wind and rain bridges are like pearls strung on the river—the upturned eaves of Qinglong Bridge catch the moonlight, the wooden tenons of Huilong Bridge have withstood centuries of wind and rain, and the bluestone slabs of the bridge surface are polished to a shine by the straw sandals of the Yao people, with copper coins from the Guangxu era still stuck in the gaps. Even more enchanting is Xiushui Village, where the ink fragrance of the Jinshi plaques mingles with the water vapor from a tributary of the Li River, transforming the white walls and black tiles of this "ancient water town" into a three-dimensional ink painting amidst the karst peaks.
Fuchuan's Dual Imprints of Time
① The Yao Ethnic Code in the Bridges: The "Five Pavilions Spanning" of the Huilan Wind and Rain Bridge Holds Profound Knowledge In the central "Wenchang Pavilion" wood carvings, the silver ornaments of the Yao King intertwine with the swastika pattern of Confucianism. Our guide, Lao Yang, tapped on a bridge pillar: "Without a single iron nail, relying entirely on the interlocking force of wooden wedges, it can withstand a level seven flood." On the benches of the bridge corridor, an old woman always sits sewing shoe soles; the ball of thread rolls over the pillar bases inscribed with "Built in the Daoguang Era," and the pattern on the shoe soles is exactly the same as the dougong structure of the bridge. The reflection of Qinglong Bridge is even more stunning; the fifteen arches connect in the water to form a full moon. When the morning mist rises, the bridge and its reflection blend seamlessly, making it impossible to distinguish which end is the human world and which is a fairyland.
② The ink-wash scroll of Zhuangyuan Village: Xiushui Village's "Zhuangyuan Tower" is hidden in a karst valley. A bluestone path extends from the "Jinshi Gate" to the riverbank. The Ming Dynasty horse-head walls are wet with morning dew, and wild chrysanthemums sprouting from the cracks in the walls are blooming bright yellow. Behind the village lies the "Reading Rock," a natural stone chamber where, according to legend, Mao Zizhi, a top scholar in the Song Dynasty, once studied diligently. The inscriptions on the rock face, blackened by incense smoke, still retain the clear strokes of "Those who excel in learning will become officials." Climbing the back mountain and looking down, the village's blue-brick and gray-tiled houses stretch along the Xiushui River, with distant rocky mountains resembling pen holders and the river like an inkwell—a truly natural painting where "mountains are the pen, water is the ink."
A Comprehensive Guide to Exploration
- Must-Visit Spots: At dawn, the Huilan Wind and Rain Bridge offers stunning views of the bridge and its reflection in the water, backlit by the morning mist that veils the arches. An elderly woman leads a water buffalo across the bridge, the shadow of her bamboo whip falling on the bluestone slabs. At the "Top Scholar Bridge" in Xiushui Village, the midday sun casts its rays, reflecting the white walls and gray tiles in a crescent-shaped pond. Ancient banyan trees stand beside the pond, their branches twisting like dragons, and a corner of a piece of brocade is laid out to dry beneath them.
- Hidden Activities: Follow "Bridge Enthusiast" Lao Li (a retired employee of the Fuchuan Cultural Relics Institute, guided tours available by appointment) to see the "hidden drainage system" of Huilong Bridge—the stone culverts under the bridge are tilted at a 45-degree angle, diverting rainwater from the bridge surface into the river, preventing water accumulation on the bridge surface for centuries; in Xiushui Village, find "Mao's descendant," Grandpa Mao, who will show you his ancestral manuscript of "Top Scholar's Essays," the ink on the yellowed Xuan paper shimmering under the light; take a fishing boat ride on Guishi Reservoir (50 yuan/boat), and see the "Turtle-shaped Mountain" floating on the water in the morning mist, with sunlight filtering through the nets and scattering like gold flakes on the blue waves as fishermen cast their nets.
- Avoidance Tips: Most of the covered bridges are wooden structures; high heels are prohibited on the bridges; some old houses in Xiushui Village are privately owned, so please inform them before visiting; during the rainy season, the water level of Guishi Reservoir rises, so choose licensed fishermen with life jackets when renting a boat.
Food and Accommodation Guide
The Flavors of Yao Village:
① "Oil Tea Fish" at the "Yao Family Restaurant" in Fuchuan County: River fish cooked with roasted tea leaves, the tea soup is slightly bitter and fragrant, and the fish absorbs the tea flavor. Served with fried rice, a large bowl costs 38 yuan.
② "Zhuangyuan Niang" at a farmhouse in Xiushui Village: Glutinous rice stuffed into fried tofu, steamed until soft and sticky. It's said to be a must-eat for students taking the imperial examinations, symbolizing "passing the exam." 10 yuan per bowl, all you can eat.
Accommodation: "Riverside Inn" in Xiushui Village, 120 yuan/night. The wooden building offers views of Zhuangyuan Bridge from the window, allowing you to fall asleep to the sound of the river at night. For convenient bridge visits, "Ancient Road Hotel" in Fuchuan County (150 yuan/night) is right next to Huilan Bridge, and you can enjoy freshly made oil tea for breakfast.
Travel Tips
By Car: Rent a car at Hezhou High-Speed Railway Station, take the Shantou-Kunming Expressway and then Fuchuan Avenue. It takes about an hour to reach Fuchuan County. All attractions are within a 20-minute drive, and road conditions are good.
Public Transportation: Take a minibus from Hezhou Bus Station to Fuchuan (15 yuan, 1 hour). From the county town, take a taxi to Huilan Bridge (5 yuan). To get to Xiushui Village, take a rural bus (8 yuan, 30 minutes).
As the setting sun casts a long shadow on Qinglong Bridge, lanterns in Xiushui Village light up one by one. The old women on the bridge corridor put away their needlework, the wind chimes of Zhuangyuan Tower tinkle softly in the evening breeze, and fishing boats return from Guishi Reservoir carrying the sunset glow—time here is not measured by clocks, but by the length of the bridge's shadow, the flow of the river, and the moss on the plaques commemorating successful candidates in the imperial examinations. This spring, why not come to Fuchuan and catch a fallen leaf that drifted from the Ming and Qing dynasties on a bench on a century-old bridge? What other hidden gems do you know that preserve traditional crafts? We're waiting for your nominations in the comments section!