Drive 3 kilometers west from Mittenwald. The road gets narrower, the trees denser, and the GPS signal is almost gone. Then, around a bend, Lautersee lies quietly in the embrace of the mountains.
I was stunned at first sight. The water was so clear I could see the stones and fish swimming below. The distant Alps were reflected on the surface, as if someone had dropped a postcard straight into reality. The best part was the temperature. It was over 30 degrees outside, but here it was only 20 degrees. The breeze blowing off the lake felt cool, and after standing there for a while in my short sleeves, I actually wanted a jacket.
The lake isn't big; it takes about half an hour to walk around it. But no one is in a rush. Some people are sitting on the grass by the shore reading, others have taken off their shoes to soak their feet in the water and zone out, and there's a family feeding the wild ducks with bread. I found a spot in the shade, sat down, and dipped my feet into the lake. It was icy, and the water was so clear I could see my toes perfectly. A German man walked by carrying a beer, nodded at me, and said, "Entspannung, oder?" (Relaxing, right?). I nodded with a smile, even though that's the only German I know.
If you want to swim, just jump in. The water isn't deep, and the bottom is covered in pebbles that feel slippery underfoot. There's a small restaurant on the shore that sells Bavarian white sausages and pretzels. Sitting on the terrace facing the lake, eating, with an ice-cold beer—I had two sausages and a drink for less than €15. It felt like this is what life is all about.
Mittenwald hides Lautersee, a 20-degree summer that feels like such a luxury.
Practical information:
Drive 3 kilometers from Mittenwald or take the bus to the Lautersee stop
Free, no admission ticket
Bring water shoes, as the stones on the lakebed can be sharp
The small restaurant closes at 5:00 PM, so go early if you want to eat
There is a parking lot by the lake, but spaces are limited, so arriving in the morning is best
If you're visiting Bavaria in the summer, don't just squeeze into the crowds at Neuschwanstein Castle. Take a detour, come to Lautersee to soak your feet, have a beer, and spend half a day living like an Alpine local in 20-degree weather.