Stop just going to Pingyao! This small city in Shanxi hides China's only remaining Tang Dynasty wooden structure, and nighttime tours of the ancient city are free!
Hello everyone,
Having traveled to Shanxi more than a dozen times, if someone asks me to recommend a must-see ancient architecture route, my answer has never changed—the southern foothills of Wutai Mountain in Xinzhou.
This route features two temples that represent half of China's architectural history: the East Hall of Foguang Temple and the Great Buddha Hall of Nanchansi Temple. The oldest existing wooden structure in China is located here. Even better, after seeing these thousand-year-old buildings, you can return to Xinzhou city. Xinzhou Ancient City is open all day and free of charge, and its nighttime scenery rivals any other ancient city.
In the summer of 1937, when Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin rode donkeys through the wilderness to find Foguang Temple, they probably never imagined that—nearly 90 years later—we can easily step into this "Tang Dynasty legacy" by high-speed rail or car.
This guide breaks down the entire "Walking with Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin" cultural journey, providing a comprehensive overview for those planning an in-depth tour of Shanxi's ancient architecture in September.
I. Why is September the Best Time to Visit Xinzhou?
Xinzhou has a temperate continental monsoon climate, with average September temperatures ranging from 13℃ to 25℃. The weather is crisp and clear, with soft sunlight.
At this time, visiting Foguang Temple and Nanchan Temple on the southern slope of Wutai Mountain is ideal. The travel conditions are pleasantly mild, the temples are less crowded, and the lighting inside the halls is perfect for clearly seeing the faces of the Tang Dynasty painted sculptures. More importantly, September is the golden window for visiting Shanxi's ancient architecture. Before National Day, crowds are manageable, and after National Day, the weather cools down, making mid-September the best time to depart.
II. First Stop: Foguang Temple – "China's First National Treasure"
How to Get There?
Foguang Temple is located in Foguang Mountain, northeast of Doucun Town, Wutai County. Driving is the most convenient option, taking about 1.5 hours from Xinzhou city. If you're not driving, you can hire a car in Xinzhou for a day trip (including Nanchansi Temple and Foguangsi Temple) starting at approximately 328 yuan per person.
Tickets and Opening Hours: Tickets are 40 yuan; opening hours are 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM.
What to See?
The East Hall is the absolute highlight. Built in the eleventh year of the Dazhong era of the Tang Dynasty (857 AD), this hall is the largest and best-preserved of the rare Tang Dynasty wooden structures still existing in China.
Upon entering the hall, you'll see 35 Tang Dynasty painted sculptures surrounding the altar. The main statue is 7 meters tall, with a full figure, a square face, and features typical Tang Dynasty aesthetics. Most notably, there are two realistic figure sculptures: one depicts Ning Gongyu, the hall's principal wife, a middle-aged woman around 40 years old, sitting cross-legged with her hands folded, exuding elegance; the other is the monk Yuancheng, who oversaw the construction of the hall, with a somber face and serene posture. Seeing realistic sculptures in a Tang Dynasty hall is extremely rare nationwide.
The hall still preserves over 40 square meters of Tang Dynasty murals, distributed on the arched walls and the back of the Buddha's seat, their colors and lines still retaining their spirit. Architecture, sculpture, murals, and inscriptions—Mr. Liang Sicheng called these the "four wonders" of Foguang Temple.
Don't miss the Ancestral Master Pagoda. Slightly east of the south side of the East Hall stands a hexagonal brick pagoda, built during the Northern Wei Dynasty. It is the only surviving building of Foguang Temple from the persecution of Buddhism in the fifth year of the Huichang era of the Tang Dynasty. Standing before the pagoda, you'll suddenly realize: this temple is older than the Tang Dynasty itself.
The story of Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin is only complete here.
In 1937, Liang Sicheng happened to see a mural from the "Complete Map of Mount Wutai" photographed by the French sinologist Paul Pelliot in Dunhuang, which marked a "Great Foguang Temple." This became his clue to searching for ancient Tang Dynasty architecture. He and Lin Huiyin, along with colleagues from the Society for Research in Chinese Architecture, rode donkeys deep into the outskirts of Mount Wutai, finally finding Foguang Temple in Doucun. Lin Huiyin personally climbed the main hall's beams and discovered Tang Dynasty ink inscriptions, confirming its construction date.
Standing before the East Hall, you see more than just a wooden building; you see Chinese scholars proving, for the first time, with their own hands that Tang Dynasty wooden structures existed in China.
III. Second Stop: Nanchansi Temple – 75 Years Earlier Than Foguangsi Temple
Many people leave after visiting Foguangsi Temple, a grave mistake. The Great Buddha Hall of Nanchansi Temple is the oldest existing wooden structure in China.
It is located in Lijiazhuang, Yangbai Township, Wutai County, about a 40-minute drive from Foguangsi Temple. The entrance fee is only 10 yuan, and its opening hours are the same as Foguangsi Temple.
The Great Hall was rebuilt in the third year of the Jianzhong era of the Tang Dynasty (782 AD), 75 years earlier than the East Hall of Foguangsi Temple. The hall preserves 17 Tang Dynasty painted sculptures, created at the same time as the hall itself, forming a rare group of Tang Dynasty sculptures outside of Dunhuang in China.
Nanchansi Temple's survival for over 1200 years is attributed to three strokes of good fortune: its dry, well-drained location; its small size, which allowed it to escape the persecution of Buddhism by Emperor Wuzong of Tang; and the generations of protection by surrounding villagers. As ancient architecture expert Chai Zejun commented: "The materials used are rationally designed, the layout is sturdy and coherent, the techniques are simple yet sophisticated, fully demonstrating the high level of architectural science and art achieved by the craftsmen of remote mountain villages in the mid-Tang Dynasty."
There are very few people here. When a Xinhua News Agency reporter visited in 2016, a staff member said something I still remember vividly: "You are the first and only group of visitors today."
IV. Third Stop: Xinzhou Ancient City – A Free Nighttime Paradise
Admission: The ancient city, city walls, and Xiurong Academy are all free, no reservations required. Opening Hours: Open 24 hours a day. Lights turn on around 18:30, and the city walls are open until 23:00 (22:00 in summer and winter).
Recommended Night Tour Route: Enter from the South Gate → Climb the city wall to watch the sunset → Stroll and eat along the North and South Streets → Enjoy the night view from Xiurong Academy → Take photos of the lights at Mingyue Tower.
Must-Try Foods:
· Buckwheat Noodles with Rice: A Xinzhou specialty, 10 yuan a bowl, price unchanged for years.
· Braised Pig Trotters: A popular dish with long queues, stewed until tender and falling off the bone, about 30 yuan each.
· Stone Cakes: Crispy and savory, perfect for eating on the go.
· Ancient City Yogurt: A perfect way to cut through the richness of the soup.
· Qicun Offal Soup: A larger bowl is more economical, with plenty of meat and a rich broth.
If you visit on a Saturday night, there's also an iron flower performance, two shows at 7 pm and 8 pm, each lasting 15 minutes. Arrive half an hour early to secure your spot.
V. Two Days & One Night: Ancient Architecture + Night Tour Guide
Day 1: Arrival at Xinzhou Ancient City + Night Tour
· Arrive in Xinzhou in the afternoon and check into a guesthouse near the ancient city.
· Climb the city wall in the evening to watch the sunset and stroll along the North-South Street for food.
· Watch the iron flower performance in the evening (Saturday) and visit the Xiurong Academy for nighttime views.
· Accommodation Recommendation: Many guesthouses are available in the ancient city; Xiurong Bieyuan and Gucheng Pushe are well-located and highly rated.
Day 2: Pilgrimage to Foguang Temple + Nanchansi Temple
· Depart at 7:30 AM by car or chartered vehicle to the southern foot of Wutai Mountain.
· Arrive at Nanchansi Temple at 9:00 AM (visit the earliest temple first), approximately 1 hour visit.
· Head to Foguang Temple at 10:30 AM (approximately 40 minutes drive).
· 11:30 AM - 2:00 PM In-depth visit to Foguang Temple: East Hall, Manjushri Hall, Ancestral Pagoda.
· 14:30 Return to Xinzhou, depart by high-speed train in the evening
VI. Old K's Personal Tips
1. Photography is prohibited inside the temples. Flash photography causes irreversible damage to the thousand-year-old painted sculptures. To see details, buy a picture book to take home.
2. Hire a guide. Both Foguang Temple and Nanchansi Temple offer free guided tours. Without a guide, you simply won't understand the story of Liang Shanbo and Lin Daiyu, or the details of the Tang Dynasty painted sculptures.
3. Chartering a car is more reliable than public transportation. Rural roads are winding and narrow, and public transportation is infrequent; chartering a car or driving yourself is the best solution.
4. Wear comfortable shoes. The East Hall of Foguang Temple requires climbing a very steep flight of stairs, and Nanchansi Temple is on a hill, requiring considerable walking.
5. Bring a light jacket. In September, the temperature difference between day and night on the southern slopes of Wutai Mountain is significant, and it's cooler inside the temples than outside.
6. Look at the Tang Dynasty inscriptions. The main hall of Nanchansi Temple bears an inscription in ink reading "Third Year of Jianzhong of the Great Tang Dynasty" on its beam, and the east hall of Foguangsi Temple also preserves inscriptions by Tang Dynasty visitors. These are genuine artifacts; don't miss them.
In conclusion:
On July 5, 1937, Liang Sicheng confirmed the Tang Dynasty inscription in the east hall of Foguangsi Temple. Two days later, the Marco Polo Bridge Incident broke out. This Tang Dynasty palace was recognized by the Chinese themselves just before the flames of war.
Nearly 90 years have passed. We can travel by high-speed rail or car in two days to traverse the path Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin spent half their lives pursuing. But the moment you truly step into the east hall, you will still feel a sense of awe across time—those wooden structures, those painted sculptures, those ink marks—they say nothing, yet they remember everything.
Go to Xinzhou in September. While the autumn colors are at their peak, before the crowds arrive.
A seasoned traveler who is always on the road. Follow me to explore China's most worthwhile cultural secrets. Stop just going to Pingyao! This small city in Shanxi hides China's only remaining Tang Dynasty wooden structure, and nighttime tours of the ancient city are free!
Hello everyone,
Having traveled to Shanxi more than a dozen times, if someone asks me to recommend a must-see ancient architecture route, my answer has never changed—the southern foothills of Wutai Mountain in Xinzhou.
This route features two temples that represent half of China's architectural history: the East Hall of Foguang Temple and the Great Buddha Hall of Nanchansi Temple. The oldest existing wooden structure in China is located here. Even better, after seeing these thousand-year-old buildings, you can return to Xinzhou city. Xinzhou Ancient City is open all day and free of charge, and its nighttime scenery rivals any other ancient city.
In the summer of 1937, when Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin rode donkeys through the wilderness to find Foguang Temple, they probably never imagined that—nearly 90 years later—we can easily step into this "Tang Dynasty legacy" by high-speed rail or car.
This guide breaks down the entire "Walking with Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin" cultural journey, providing a comprehensive overview for those planning an in-depth tour of Shanxi's ancient architecture in September.
I. Why is September the Best Time to Visit Xinzhou?
Xinzhou has a temperate continental monsoon climate, with average September temperatures ranging from 13℃ to 25℃. The weather is crisp and clear, with soft sunlight.
At this time, visiting Foguang Temple and Nanchan Temple on the southern slope of Wutai Mountain is ideal. The travel conditions are pleasantly mild, the temples are less crowded, and the lighting inside the halls is perfect for clearly seeing the faces of the Tang Dynasty painted sculptures. More importantly, September is the golden window for visiting Shanxi's ancient architecture. Before National Day, crowds are manageable, and after National Day, the weather cools down, making mid-September the best time to depart.
II. First Stop: Foguang Temple – "China's First National Treasure"
How to Get There?
Foguang Temple is located in Foguang Mountain, northeast of Doucun Town, Wutai County. Driving is the most convenient option, taking about 1.5 hours from Xinzhou city. If you're not driving, you can hire a car in Xinzhou for a day trip (including Nanchansi Temple and Foguangsi Temple) starting at approximately 328 yuan per person.
Tickets and Opening Hours: Tickets are 40 yuan; opening hours are 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM.
What to See?
The East Hall is the absolute highlight. Built in the eleventh year of the Dazhong era of the Tang Dynasty (857 AD), this hall is the largest and best-preserved of the rare Tang Dynasty wooden structures still existing in China.
Upon entering the hall, you'll see 35 Tang Dynasty painted sculptures surrounding the altar. The main statue is 7 meters tall, with a full figure, a square face, and features typical Tang Dynasty aesthetics. Most notably, there are two realistic figure sculptures: one depicts Ning Gongyu, the hall's principal wife, a middle-aged woman around 40 years old, sitting cross-legged with her hands folded, exuding elegance; the other is the monk Yuancheng, who oversaw the construction of the hall, with a somber face and serene posture. Seeing realistic sculptures in a Tang Dynasty hall is extremely rare nationwide.
The hall still preserves over 40 square meters of Tang Dynasty murals, distributed on the arched walls and the back of the Buddha's seat, their colors and lines still retaining their spirit. Architecture, sculpture, murals, and inscriptions—Mr. Liang Sicheng called these the "four wonders" of Foguang Temple.
Don't miss the Ancestral Master Pagoda. Slightly east of the south side of the East Hall stands a hexagonal brick pagoda, built during the Northern Wei Dynasty. It is the only surviving building of Foguang Temple from the persecution of Buddhism in the fifth year of the Huichang era of the Tang Dynasty. Standing before the pagoda, you'll suddenly realize: this temple is older than the Tang Dynasty itself.
The story of Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin is only complete here.
In 1937, Liang Sicheng happened to see a mural from the "Complete Map of Mount Wutai" photographed by the French sinologist Paul Pelliot in Dunhuang, which marked a "Great Foguang Temple." This became his clue to searching for ancient Tang Dynasty architecture. He and Lin Huiyin, along with colleagues from the Society for Research in Chinese Architecture, rode donkeys deep into the outskirts of Mount Wutai, finally finding Foguang Temple in Doucun. Lin Huiyin personally climbed the main hall's beams and discovered Tang Dynasty ink inscriptions, confirming its construction date.
Standing before the East Hall, you see more than just a wooden building; you see Chinese scholars proving, for the first time, with their own hands that Tang Dynasty wooden structures existed in China.
III. Second Stop: Nanchansi Temple – 75 Years Earlier Than Foguangsi Temple
Many people leave after visiting Foguangsi Temple, a grave mistake. The Great Buddha Hall of Nanchansi Temple is the oldest existing wooden structure in China.
It is located in Lijiazhuang, Yangbai Township, Wutai County, about a 40-minute drive from Foguangsi Temple. The entrance fee is only 10 yuan, and its opening hours are the same as Foguangsi Temple.
The Great Hall was rebuilt in the third year of the Jianzhong era of the Tang Dynasty (782 AD), 75 years earlier than the East Hall of Foguangsi Temple. The hall preserves 17 Tang Dynasty painted sculptures, created at the same time as the hall itself, forming a rare group of Tang Dynasty sculptures outside of Dunhuang in China.
Nanchansi Temple's survival for over 1200 years is attributed to three strokes of good fortune: its dry, well-drained location; its small size, which allowed it to escape the persecution of Buddhism by Emperor Wuzong of Tang; and the generations of protection by surrounding villagers. As ancient architecture expert Chai Zejun commented: "The materials used are rationally designed, the layout is sturdy and coherent, the techniques are simple yet sophisticated, fully demonstrating the high level of architectural science and art achieved by the craftsmen of remote mountain villages in the mid-Tang Dynasty."
There are very few people here. When a Xinhua News Agency reporter visited in 2016, a staff member said something I still remember vividly: "You are the first and only group of visitors today."
IV. Third Stop: Xinzhou Ancient City – A Free Nighttime Paradise
Admission: The ancient city, city walls, and Xiurong Academy are all free, no reservations required. Opening Hours: Open 24 hours a day. Lights turn on around 18:30, and the city walls are open until 23:00 (22:00 in summer and winter).
Recommended Night Tour Route: Enter from the South Gate → Climb the city wall to watch the sunset → Stroll and eat along the North and South Streets → Enjoy the night view from Xiurong Academy → Take photos of the lights at Mingyue Tower.
Must-Try Foods:
· Buckwheat Noodles with Rice: A Xinzhou specialty, 10 yuan a bowl, price unchanged for years.
· Braised Pig Trotters: A popular dish with long queues, stewed until tender and falling off the bone, about 30 yuan each.
· Stone Cakes: Crispy and savory, perfect for eating on the go.
· Ancient City Yogurt: A perfect way to cut through the richness of the soup.
· Qicun Offal Soup: A larger bowl is more economical, with plenty of meat and a rich broth.
If you visit on a Saturday night, there's also an iron flower performance, two shows at 7 pm and 8 pm, each lasting 15 minutes. Arrive half an hour early to secure your spot.
V. Two Days & One Night: Ancient Architecture + Night Tour Guide
Day 1: Arrival at Xinzhou Ancient City + Night Tour
· Arrive in Xinzhou in the afternoon and check into a guesthouse near the ancient city.
· Climb the city wall in the evening to watch the sunset and stroll along the North-South Street for food.
· Watch the iron flower performance in the evening (Saturday) and visit the Xiurong Academy for nighttime views.
· Accommodation Recommendation: Many guesthouses are available in the ancient city; Xiurong Bieyuan and Gucheng Pushe are well-located and highly rated.
Day 2: Pilgrimage to Foguang Temple + Nanchansi Temple
· Depart at 7:30 AM by car or chartered vehicle to the southern foot of Wutai Mountain.
· Arrive at Nanchansi Temple at 9:00 AM (visit the earliest temple first), approximately 1 hour visit.
· Head to Foguang Temple at 10:30 AM (approximately 40 minutes drive).
· 11:30 AM - 2:00 PM In-depth visit to Foguang Temple: East Hall, Manjushri Hall, Ancestral Pagoda.
· 14:30 Return to Xinzhou, depart by high-speed train in the evening
VI. Old K's Personal Tips
1. Photography is prohibited inside the temples. Flash photography causes irreversible damage to the thousand-year-old painted sculptures. To see details, buy a picture book to take home.
2. Hire a guide. Both Foguang Temple and Nanchansi Temple offer free guided tours. Without a guide, you simply won't understand the story of Liang Shanbo and Lin Daiyu, or the details of the Tang Dynasty painted sculptures.
3. Chartering a car is more reliable than public transportation. Rural roads are winding and narrow, and public transportation is infrequent; chartering a car or driving yourself is the best solution.
4. Wear comfortable shoes. The East Hall of Foguang Temple requires climbing a very steep flight of stairs, and Nanchansi Temple is on a hill, requiring considerable walking.
5. Bring a light jacket. In September, the temperature difference between day and night on the southern slopes of Wutai Mountain is significant, and it's cooler inside the temples than outside.
6. Look at the Tang Dynasty inscriptions. The main hall of Nanchansi Temple bears an inscription in ink reading "Third Year of Jianzhong of the Great Tang Dynasty" on its beam, and the doorway of the East Hall of Foguangsi Temple also preserves inscriptions by Tang Dynasty visitors. These are genuine artifacts; don't miss them.
In conclusion:
On July 5, 1937, Liang Sicheng confirmed the Tang Dynasty inscription in the East Hall of Foguangsi Temple. Two days later, the Marco Polo Bridge Incident broke out. This Tang Dynasty palace was recognized by the Chinese themselves just before the flames of war.
Nearly 90 years have passed. We can travel by high-speed rail or car in two days to traverse the path that Liang Sicheng and Lin Biao spent half their lives pursuing. But the moment you actually step into the East Hall, you will still feel a sense of awe across time—those wooden structures, those painted sculptures, those ink marks—they say nothing, yet they remember everything.
Go to Xinzhou in September. While the autumn colors are at their peak, before the crowds arrive.
A seasoned traveler who is always on the road. Follow me and I'll take you to some of China's most worthwhile cultural hidden gems.